More on Chrysler wheel alignment

No that's not normal. It should run true and straight on a straight flat road. Have had several Chrysler products (including two mini-van models) and not had this situation. Maybe their alignment equipment is out of calibration?

I had a 1995 Caravan that had such problems - or at least was given that same excuse or and over again. By the time I did the research to find out the problem, it was beyond the warranty. Had to do with the suspension being assembled or the holes mis-stamped and out of alignment. Check out the Tech service bulletins on

Good luck.

Dan

Do the cheap and simple first...

Entirely possible that you have a 'lead' tire, try switching the front tires side for side and see if the situation doesn't change.

You just proved my earlier point about getting b.s. answers from alignment shops - they obviously gave you an answer that does not line up with reality but that would get you out of the shop so they could hop on other (paying) work orders - that is very common in both senses of the word. Take it somewhere that will give you a printout and figure out if there is a problem with the alignment, and, if so, how to fix it. The problem isn't necessarily alignment, but since you say it's always done this, it likely is. If it's *NOT* an alignment problem, at least the printout will prove that point so you can focus on other possible causes and not waste more time and money on alignment.

Some things can confuse the issue, such as tire wear that may prevent you from knowing if you really solve the problem unless you also simultaneously get new tires. Could be a brake problem (i.e., a sticking caliper), but that would also show up in other ways. But start out with getting a printout and go from there. Post the numbers if you're not sure how to read them.

I solved multiple alignment problems on my Concorde by doing this - it's actually very enjoyable to drive now. Prior to that, I was relying on shops to replace parts and tires with no real progress (i.e., I was a real sucker).

You have to be systematic about it. Be prepared to spend some money (possibly a new set of tires, and a partial alignment or two) to figure it out and fix it. But it will be less money than relying on someone else to do it and you're more likely to really solve it this way.

It also wouldn't hurt to pay $20 to

- you might find one that addressed this exact issue (i.e., pulling) and that will give valuable clues to solving it specific to this vehicle.

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Excellent suggestion. But if it doesn't show to be the problem, then go get your printout. Be prepared also to find out down the road (literally) that an alignmnet issue caused the lead problem on that tire (or that may not be the case). But that is a good suggestion from Neil.

BTW - do you get your tires rotated every 5000 to 7000 miles?

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

hmmm, my wife's cousin just had their T&C bought back because it pulled to the right, they had to fight for it though, and get the ombudsman into the act, they then had to take the van to a special garage who determined the "molds" for the front suspension wear down after so many stampings, eventually causing the part to be out of spec, some of these parts make it out the door....

fight it out, you are correct.

Any defect in a suspension stamping that would cause it to pull would most likely show up in the alignent numbers.

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Good - at least now that's out of the way and you can systematically move on to the next step. Which pretty much indicates it has to be alignment or brakes (and probably the former).

Ask them. Give them that chance. Did they even check the alignment (withoug making adjustments)? Your first post said that you asked them to check the alignment - did they do that? Maybe they have a sensible explanation for what they told you. Hopefully you will be able to tell if they're just making that up or not. I'd be interesed to know what they say. If they say something non-specific, then take it somewhere else and get the printout - that dead horse that I keep beating.

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

Yes, that was what I found out about my 1995 Caravan.....Of course the dealer told me that the van pulled to the right because it prevented you from drifting into oncoming traffic. Ohhh.. and they even send it out to have the Goodyear tire dealer check and do the alignment. Guess what, they never could figure it out. Ohh ... and it is not the "molds" wearing down... it is DIES when it comes to stamped parts. And I doubt it was a few parts making it out the door...... more like many. Got to make that production count, you know.

Dan

a crown is found on each lane of any paved road to exaggerate the issue think of a 2 track gong through the woods thats what happens to asphalt roads

Zork wrote:

There is another possibility - the steering gear can have a weak valve in one direction that would cause it to bias to one side. I know there is a TSB on LH vehicles for that, so it could very well be true of other vehicles. However, I would put this furhter down on the list to check out.

Also - is the pulling to one side affedted by whether you are accelerating, maintining constant speed, or decelerating? I suspect the answer is "no", but if it is "yes", then that brings up one other possibility.

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

This should be obvious, but if you want to check the "crown" theory just get in the left lane of the interstate. It's leaning the other way.

To test this could one simply shift to neutral and shut off the engine while moving and see if it still pulls?

Or drive north in the southbound lanes. 8^)

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

I think the problem with that test would be that the steering is so extremely stiff with the engine (and thus power steering assist) off that the subtlety of a slight or moderate pull would be hard to detect. But try it - it might tell you something. Obviously don't do it in traffic or around any other cars or curves or with anyone that you like in the vehicle - neither your brakes or your steering will work very well at all.

From the TSB for '93 LH vehicles, New Yorker, and Vision: "STEERING GEAR VALVE IMBALANCE - Steering gear valve imbalance can sometimes cause a vehicle lead. Although there is no quick lest or measurement that can be performed to verify a good or bad steering gear valve, generally the steering efforts will feel much lighter in the lead direction and heavier in the opposite direction with an unbalanced valve. Replace the steering gear only as a "last resort" to solve the problem."

This TSB (#02-16-99) is interesting to read - it is on generally troubleshooting steering lead - goes over all the possibilities, and there is a Repair Procedure in a second document linked to that TSB for the specific vehciles mentioned but much of which is generic to other vehicles (same laws of physics).

It also contains the info. on a lead which is applied-engine-power dependent - called "torque steer". I think that applies to any front wheel drive vehicle, and is resolved by shimming the engine mounts (to change the fore/aft axis of the engine/tranny package).

Educational reading for anyone with this problem. Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")

With the winter we've had this year, I'd rather drive south in the northbound lane! :-)

Matt

You're wrong on every point. That TSB and the related Repair Procedure apply to '93 to '00 LH, New Yorker, and Vision vehicles. It covers many causes of vehicle lead or pull, including tire pressure, tire conicity, alignment, torque-induced lead, and steering gear valve imbalance. Most of the information in that TSB can be applied to *ANY* vehicle.

The cradle shift is to allow some correction of non-symmetrical (i.e., difference in between the two sides) caster, which otherwise has no adjustment on those vehicles. Shifting the cradle is simply a way to make the caster on the two sides more equal, and thus reduce side-to-side difference in caster from contributing to a pull problem. This is not to be confused with shimming the engine mounts to reduce or eliminate torque steer, also covered in the same TSB and Repair Procedure.

Why would you post such mis-information as you just did?

Bill Putney (to reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with "x")