Oil Pressure Switch - 2005 PT Cruiser

Probably the same part as on the LH cars which tend to start flickerung the low pressure light at idle/warm/in gear due to internal (often accompanied by external) leaking. From a few years of reading posts on three LH car forums, I would advise getting the OEM part. Yeah they do eventually fail, but I've read many posts on the LH forums about the initial calibration on the aftermarket ones being so crappy that they often have the light-on-at-idle problem right out of the box.

Yeah - I believe the corners of their would-be hex are pretty rounded, so regular socket doesn't work well. But I would think careful use of slip joint pliers might do the trick in place of a special tool.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

If it's the same sort of strange-rounded-hex used on older cars, a socket works fine.

In that case, a 6-point would be best.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Thanks for pointing that out -- yes, gotta be a 6-point. I actually avoid 12-points in general, especially in larger sizes.

Yes it is next to the oil filter. If you already know you are going to purchase the part do it from a dealer, then you have an idea of what the switch looks like and what size socket it will take to remove it!!! If the old sending unit is leaking make sure to pop out the rubber isolator and clean all the oil out of the connector or the lite will come back on. Leave the isolator (rubber seal) out of the connector when you reassemble it.

Glenn Beasley Chrysler Tech

Thanks to all for the feedback. I had an idea of what the switch looks like from the picture on AutoZone website. Hope the switch solves the problem and not some wiring or computer problems. I did the "on off on" routine and see a P522 code on the odometer.

Again thanks to you guys!

You're welcome. Actually, the bigger (worst-case) concern would be an actual low oil pressure situation (and potential engine damage). But based on people's experience with late model Chryslers, it is almost certain to be the switch itself. Ideally, you would actually have a mechanical gage put on temporarily to prove that your oil pressure is not out of spec. But that's your call, your risk to take. Chances are it's OK.

Bill Putney (To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my address with the letter 'x')

Thanks for your input Bill and Glenn , I had a professional mechanic replace the sensor today and clear the P522 code. A "do it yourselfer" might get it done with the car cold, but I could see this thing is not the easiest to get to. The mechanic wore a heat proof leggend on of his arms while working around a hot exhause converter and had a very long extension with universal joint and special socket to do the job. I asked about checking the pressure with a mechanical gage but he didn't think it necessary. The original sensor was leaking and he did as Glenn suggested with the rubber gasket.

The car only has 31670 miles so I guess this failure so soon was "just one of those things." It took the mechanic all of 20 minutes to jack up the car, crawl under it and make the R/R even with the hot converter.

I am a Chrylser nut! Also have a Dodge Caravan and Dakota pickup

This group has been a big help in keeping up my "junk" economically.

Thanks to all!

willh>You're welcome. Actually, the bigger (worst-case) concern would be an