brake problem: right diagnose? (2)

Hi all,

Thank you for so many answers on my brake question!!

Today I did a next check:

With the car on the jack and the right front wheel taken off I pressed the brake pedal multiple times. After that the wheel flange was solid as a rock as I tried to rotate it from hand. After some waiting, 10 minutes or so, the flange appeared to have freed up again.

I did the same another time, and as the flange was locked again, on the brake caliper opened the bleeding nipple... There appeared a few drops of brake fluid and the brake relased immediately!!

So, I'm further on the 'brake line acting as a valve' theme...

I had ordered new hoses yet, and these did arrive yesterday. So, some fiddling with the system will be due next days...

Has anyone tips here to slacken the front hoses on the inner mudguard-side of them?? The nut(s) fixating the hose to the metal brake pipe are **very** bad to reach here... When I see this setup I get bad thoughts about UK engineers from the

60's ;-))

BTW: the front calipers on a P4 are fixed types, with 2 pistons, on either side of the disk

BTW2: last year I worked on the master cylinder too: cleaning, new seals, new dustcap, new washer (which keeps leaking :-(

Tx, rob

Reply to
robwill2
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Not worked on your model in working memory, but sometimes I have cut the pipes off rather than undo them and then replace the whole lot. Or if they are on a bracket, cut that off to make access easier, then weld it back on. Assuming you have some access then plusgas and heat, coupled with some impact technology will usually undo everything.

MrCheerful

Reply to
MrCheerful

On Thu, 05 Feb 2004 23:53:44 GMT, "MrCheerful" wrote: (snip)

Liked that one: and you are dead right: it reminded me of the heroic struggles taking my TR5 apart before a rebuild.

J.

Reply to
JH

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