Polish for Classics

Wonderful stuff! If applied correctly it also enables your Bugatti Royale to run on unleaded, and your Hurricane to fly on WW2 Russian petrol.

At this point Little Red Hooding Ride came sliding down the rainbow, crying "Who's been sleeping in my porridge".

Pass the snake oil.

Geoff MacK

Reply to
Geoff Mackenzie
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Indeed, and many of you have been just that in this thread!

Reply to
:Jerry:

Its the spray furniture polish with a damp rag fixes that problem. Autoglym is full of silicon. r

Reply to
Rob

I have my doubts about those types of sales persons. We have them coming around selling pens for $1 and out of that 10c goes to the charity the remainder goes into the pockets of the organization distributing the products.

Reply to
Rob

Actually Autoglym have a product to restore the paint first was called Renovator?? which you prepared the car for the "hard" polish.

This was the process which firms like "Ming" etc used as a paint protection plan.

Reply to
Rob

That was good stuff.

Reply to
Rob

Yes indeed, that is why I asked (in another reply) for clarification as to if the OP wanted polishing (buffing) compound or wax (sealer). I know of no *effective* one step solution that will both polish and wax at the same time - in fact it's almost a oxymoron to ask for one!

Reply to
:Jerry:

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Reply to
Ian Dalziel

Farecla do a specific compound for cellulose paints. I believe this is because the ammonia or something in the other compounds upsets celly.

Reply to
Doki

I've never found Autoglym to work well on black paint; lots of swirls. I've had collinite recommended to me as something that gives a good shine and long lasting protection, and it's not stupidly dear as far as car wax goes.

I also once saw a Porsche on a Swissol stand that looked stunning, but I suspect they'd had 3 blokes on it for at least a day...

Reply to
Doki

I've had decent results with Mer but only when I've applied it whilst the car is still wet. Downside of that though is that you need to carry a polishing rag with you to scrape out the dried up residue from under trim that seems to still come out after every time it rains several weeks later.

Reply to
Conor

I think this is a point that many people are missing, there is no easy (magical) way of gaining a shine other than to spend time, and sometimes that means a lot of time, polishing and then waxing. If you want to get a deep shine you have to get rid of the imperfections, you might be able to get a smooth surface by using one of the 'automagical' paint sealers (aka silicon wax) but you are only sealing in the imperfections which can - and probably will - still be seen through the apparent sheen.

Reply to
:Jerry:

But that's how most on the market work. As I said Turtle Wax Extreme is one of the better ones at a reasonable price.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I think you'll find that's the other way round, for example Farecla G7 paste is used specifically on Cellulose and it *does* contain Ammonia, although there's not that many compounds that do contain ammonia these days.

The professionals tend to use Farecla or 3M products for their paint care.

Stephen.

Reply to
Stephen Hull

"Doki" realised it was Sat, 4 Aug 2007 12:22:18 +0100 and decided it was time to write:

Autoglym do a product called 'ultra deep shine' now which I have found quite satisfactory for use on my black TR3A:

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A tenner a bottle, I believe, but it goes a long way.

Reply to
Yippee

Gosh - just saved me £6990 on Zymol which someone recommended!

Thanks,

Geoff MacK

Reply to
Geoff Mackenzie

Geoff if you aint got £7k to spend just get back to Halfords theres a cheaper Zymol at about £12.00 for all you cheapskates ( and its bloody good too)

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Reply to
SuperMatey

There are plenty of "wax polishes" sold as primary finishes (mainly for woodworking) that have no abrasive capacity at all. Now we can argue about the etymology of polish and whether they ought to be called such, but you can buy things, they're labelled "polish", they aren't abrasive.

Reply to
Andy Dingley

FMR! I presume this is the stuff you use on those hand-turned wooden volume knobs for a few grand that the hi-fi crazies buy.

Should I apply it with a polishing mop on a Bosch PMF 180E, or should I spring the extra money for a Fein Multimaster?

Reply to
Andy Dingley

Aha. I knew it was something to do with ammonia. Certainly 2 pack is a hell of a lot harder than cellulose and works differently, so IMO it'd be the saner option to use a specific celly compound or get in touch with Farecla's very handy technical man.

I'm not all that sure that professionals do much paint care. 3M and Farecla are certainly the most used for rectification and finishing in the bodyshop business, but most professionals don't hang onto any cars for long periods of time or actually bother using waxes other than to fill minor faults. OTOH modern car paint lasts long enough for most car owners with just regular washing, and it's still uncertain as to whether the OP actually wants an abrasive polish or a wax...

Reply to
Doki

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