Triumph Trunnions

Hi everybody.

I will shortly need to service my Triumph Spitfire for the first time, and was wondering a) What oil do you use in the trunnions (I know it isn't grease) b) How you get it in there The obvious answer to the latter question is to use a grease gun and screw a nipple in, but I've been advised that standard handle pump action grease guns can't pump oil properly.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated,

David

Reply to
David Balfour
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David, get yourself a bottle of EP90 gear oil and a standard pump action oil can with a plastic or bendy spout - fill can with EP90 jack up car - to allow the oil to get right into the trunnion put cloth or plastic sheet on floor unscrew grease nipple from trunnion shove the end of your oil can into the nipple hole pump until oil comes out everywhere and collects in a pool on your cloth - make sure it comes out of the trunnion too wipe up excess, get new cloth, wipe up some more replace nipple lower car and make note to do this every 3000 miles or six months (the manual says every 6000 miles)

Alternatively do it in next door's driveway when they are out :-)

Reply to
J

Hi Jason, You're intent on doing things the messy way, aren't you! Get a good quality grease gun, I use a Wanner Abnox gun which I've had for about 12 years. I keep this as a dedicated gun for trunnion oiling and it's always been very effective. The usual problem with pumping oil is the poor quality grease fittings supplied with some guns, they just leak when pressure is applied. When storing the gun full of oil, pull back the lever to release pressure, otherwise you will have gradual seepage at joints. Cheers, Bill.

-- Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for

PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom

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Reply to
William Davies

LOL - cheap, Bill I do it the cheap way - well no actually I don't claim this method as my own, it's Leon's I think. I just couldn't find a grease gun that was good enough at this so I went for the existing oil can and it worked fine. I am very tempted by the air fed grease guns - they should have a good seal and if I can regulate the air pressure down low enough that should be great!

Reply to
J

"David Balfour" realised it was Wed, 22 Oct

2003 13:54:31 +0100 and decided it was time to write:

Hypoid 90W was what Standard-Triumph suggested.

I don't bother with oil, I just pump in a lot of lithium grease very regularly (at least every 3,000 km's). I've had no problems over the last 40,000 km's.

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Reply to
Yippee

Well having owned my Spit for some 22 years and 120 k miles all I can say is why oil the trunnions? I know its says so in the book but what's wrong with grease? When I was a newbie I used to fart about with EP 90 and get it every where exept thru the nipple. I gave up and went for good old Castrol grease. It doesnt run out and is extremely good at lubrciating things under pressure isnt it? I cant believe the trunion threads are more or less stressed than prop shaft u/j needle rollers. It passes every MoT and I grease them every year or so. I read all the club articles and the prophecies of doom but well I'm not going back. More important is to grease the rear wheel bearings. C'mon tell me why I'm wrong all you Spit heads.... Jonners

Reply to
Jon Tilson

Historically, older formualations of grease were prone to hardening with age. New grease won't displace dried greasewhen pumped in, it will find it's own channel and pump through that, leaving the dried out grease in place. Grease is also prone to leaving air gaps so portions of the thread remain unlubricated. Gear oil is self levelling so there is no chance of an airlock in the greasegun being causing a bubble where lubrication is needed. Modern greases shouldn't dry out to the same degree as the old formulations, but any neglect will still be felt. Having owned in excess of 40 Heralds and a number of Spitfires, and used them ad daily transport over the past

14years, I've not yet suffered a broken vertical link. I am disinclined to try and be clever by re-inventing a lubrication procedure which I believe the manufacturers got absolutely right, Cheers, Bill.

-- Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for

PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom

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Reply to
William Davies

formulations,

I forgot to mention that many of the cars I've owned and those of customers have come to me with front trunnions and vertical links in a truly dreadful state. Invariably the really bad ones (and particularly the snapped links) have been greased, Cheers, Bill.

-- Rarebits4classics .......just what you've been looking for

PO Box 1232 Calne Wiltshire SN11 8WA United Kingdom

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Reply to
William Davies

I have never owned a Triumph that needed its trunnions oiled, so this is off on a bit of a tangent, but... The kingpins on a P5 Rover need oil rather than grease too, and the recommended lubricant was EP140. This is thicker than EP90 but still oil rather than grease, and any grease gun with a flexible spout could pump it.

I don't know if EP140 is suitable for a Spit (or even if it is still available!). Perhaps someone in the NG could comment?

Jim

Reply to
Jim Warren

Grease or oil the age old debate - my answer? It doesn't really matter what lubrication you put in there, just do it and do it regularly. It's the accumulation of road dirt and water that kills the thing. It's something of a misnomer to talk about trunnion failures as it fact the trunnions don't corrode, they are brass - it's the vertical link that fails, it's cast and machined steel. The threaded part that screws into the trunnion corrodes and breaks. If you're lucky it happens at low speed if you're not then it happens at 40 mph with oncoming traffic. I've seen the aftermath of that, not nice. When it fails you run the risk of panel and suspension damage to your car plus whatever you hit when you lose steering and possibly brakes too - all for the sake of 20 minutes with a grease/oil gun. In normal service the vertical link and trunnion are pretty robust, I've ripped the lower wishbone off the front suspension of a Vitesse following a broadside slide into a kerb - the impact totalled a wheel as well as the lower wishbone - the vertical link stayed in one piece. As funds were scarce and I was young and reckless I never changed it - it was still fine 3 years later after the car had been raced for 2 seasons!

Reply to
J

Hi Jason, The trunnions actually wear very badly, but as you say they don't fail catastrophically. A friend had a Herald fail it's MOT on a "N/S trunnion worn", which the garage charged a substanial amount to repair. About 6 months later, the owner swapped from disc to drum brakes and gave me the surplus parts. I could push the nearside trunnion up and down by about 4-5mm on the vertical link, absolutely dreadful. If you ever drive a Herald/Spitfire or similar where there are periodic clunks. seemingly from theneath the floorpan, as you change direction of travel or increase power, that's most likely the vertical link rocking on it's threads within the trunnion.

The friend who introduced me to Heralds had a vertical link snap at 70+mph in the fast lane of the M4 in Wales (yes, it had been greased). This tale made me obsessive about oiling and general trunnion care from day 1 of Herald ownership.

Reply to
William Davies

Two problems kill trunnions -- water and dirt ingress and the gease hardening -- it really dosent matter what you use grease or oil as long as it is done regularly to flush the dirt and oild lubricant out.

Reply to
AWM

I think it's available as gearbox lubricant for Seagull outboard motors.

Ian

Reply to
Ian Johnston

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