From unreliable memory push rod was adjustable on the herald but this
won't help it sounds like a hydrualic problem -- try bleeding the
system if that dosent work but a kit in the master cylinder (may as
weel do slave at same time)
I doubt they were ever adjustable, there would be no way of doing so (other
than shimming the slave cylinder to bell housing mounting point) but IIRC
there were different lengths of push rod depending on engine cc and clutch.
In general if it's that bad something has worn to failure point rather than
needing adjustment. If you need to top up with fluid then you've lost some,
not a good thing - it can go bad after years and isn't much of a job to
change. However I would think your problem is not hydraulic but mechanical.
Have a word with Dave at www.canleyclassics.com the standard clutch is not
adjustable but Canley's make an adjustable push rod. Be advised that the
problem may be failure of the release lever, they crack at the pivot. This
means a replacement (box in the car if I remember correctly) again available
from Canley's for not a lot.
"Neadhyl Wroller" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
The pivot pin can drop out, this will cause lost throw, I strongly suggest
the OP check that the pin is still present. IIRC the pin can be replaced
without removing box or engine.
The clutch was adjustable on only the earliest Heralds, the feature was
deleted during 1960.
Has it been like this since the clutch was fitted, or has it gradually
worsened? If the latter, then as the other posters have mentioned, something
has failed - check those points mentioned, as well as looking for play in
the master cylinder's clevis pin.
If on the other hand the clutch has had a very low bite point since it was
installed, chances are you have one of the newer Delphi Borg & Beck clutches
installed. Though supposedly a direct replacement for the original, these
introduce a greater degree of free play between the release bearing and the
fingers on the clutch cover. As such, the piston only works along the last
2/3rds of it's travel before hitting the retaining circlip.
Solution? There are a few options, simplest being to open out the pinchbolt
slot in the slave cylinder so that it can be slid forward. Another option is
making an extended pushrod. The third and most elegant solution is to have a
new bearing carrier made to move the thrust bearing closer to the clutch
cover. This would of course involve dismantling and machine shop work, so
not a quick fix.
As others have said, check the pivot pin. Quite often falls out, and gets
replaced by bolts at garages. The threads on the bolt then wear off, making
it thinner, when it's already thinner to start with. Makes for a fair amount
of slack in the system.
Also, I found quite a lot of play in the pedal on one of my cars, which
turned out to be a very tired clevis pin (? - The one with the hole for the
split pin, it's too late to remember properly now). Changed that, and
instantly had a much better pedal.
It is possible to maybe shove the slave cylinder further into the carrier,
which helps too.
It's worth pointing out that as this is a lever/fulcrum arrangement small
amounts of play translate to bigger distance of pedal travel - the last
poster reminded me of a similar situation I'd seen in a Vitesse where there
was a little play in everything but seemingly not enough to worry about. In
desperation the owner went through and reconditioned the whole lot, result?
Superb pedal feel, action and travel and we still couldn't see anything
standing out as worn out in the stuff we took off.
"Stuffed" < email@example.com> wrote in message
Pure coincidence, look what's just been listed on ebay
No financial interest on my part - check what the new price is first though,
if they are still available that is!
"J" < firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message news:XFUxc.7$aj1.4@newsfe2-win... > It's worth pointing out that as this is a lever/fulcrum arrangement small
All the other posts are right, especially the one that says a little bit of
play in each item doesn't seem much, but it all adds up.
The one thing that I don't think has been mentioned yet is that the hole in
the top of the brake pedal wears oval, and IMHO tends to be the biggest
Most secondhand pedals will be as bad as your own, but you can use a brake
pedal, which normally has less wear, the angle is different, so you need to
get it in a vice and 'adjust' it with a hammer.
Another bodge is to weld (or superglue if your a real cowboy) a couple of
washers onto the pedal, and drill the holes out to the right size for the
I did this on a spitfire the other day, and also enlarged the slot in the
slave cylinder as one of the other posts mentioned which did the trick.
Good Luck with it
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