Where to find a hub puller...

"Jon Tilson" realised it was Sat, 5 Jun 2004

16:45:51 +0100 and decided it was time to write:

You can roll your own:

Or you can get a reproduction of the original Churchill tool for loadsamoney here:

If this puller is needed for removing the drive flanges from the tapered Triumph half-shafts (also used on later Marina and Itel's) then, knowing how tight the taper can be, I would suggest investing in something made to the original spec' - disintegrating pullers whilst under great tension is something to avoid IMO.

"Jerry." realised it was Sat, 5 Jun 2004 22:35:12 +0100 and decided it was time to write:

The one from the TSSC *is* to original spec.

I had my father-in-law make up a similar tool to do the same job on Skodas (it also fits Beetles). It has to be very strong! Mine's made from 1/4" flat steel bar with reinforcings, and uses a 3' by 3/4" tommy bar.

An interesting variation on a similar theme is described in the Practical Classics' Herald restoration by Andy Gough (Feb 2004):

Weld a 2" piece of scaffold tube into the centre of a spare Herald rim. Weld a large high-tensile nut into the end of the tube, being sure to get it square and central. The welding has to be really strong. Fit the wheel rim to the hub and tighten a high-tensile bolt into the nut with a breaker bar. Finally whack the end of the bolt with a large hammer. It has to be pointed out that this technique was used with the half-shafts out of the car, and that the half-shaft flies about six feet when the bolt is hit!

I made one out of a spare hub bolted to the wheel nuts to point outwards instead of in, i.e. back to back with the car's hub. Ideally, I should have welded a large nut to the centre as above, but instead ground out two opposing holes in the tubular part of the hub and hammered a bar of steel through to make a stop. Then I used the car's wheel nuts to provide the pulling force. It worked, but buggered up the threads enough to warrant a new set of wheel studs and nuts.