Pop-Up light on 1980 Corvette don't work ! How do ya fix them ?

Here is a site that was passed to me. I have a 90 C4, different body than you have, but you may find some info somewhere on this site.

If this link works for you there is a vacuum diagram that should help you diagnose the problem. If not just go to the base link and drill down to the 68/82 headlight & lamps then 68/82 headlight parts & components.

If that don't work I could scan a sheet and send you a copy but that could be very slow also.

Good luck,

They are vaccum activated and NOT many C3 owners have headligfhts that BOTH pop right up...at the same time...

I think I gave you the C3 Registry web address so you could ask your questions on their forums AND get the "correct" answers..plus how to do it RIGHT .with the least agrivation...

Good luck... sorry you have Big Brrother inspecting everything also...

Bob G.

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Here is the link to the guy who wrote the book that Zip and others sell.

Here's the guide. If you email Chris, tell him your problem and if you pay for it, I bet he can send you a PDF in email before the real one gets to you.

===================== YEP... Chris Prowl is alive... and back in Virginia... He was AWOL for a few years but resurfaced last sumer...

I should be more organized as I do have his URL bookmarked on one of the computers...

TOM...how in the living (word deleted) do you keep all "your" information organized??? I am so bad at it that I keep the keys to my cars in their ignitions...otherwise it would take me all day to find the "set" I wanted...

Bob G.

yes, you're right about them not opening up at the same time. First I thought that there was something wrong because the left opened before the right always.. But then I found out they were vaccum operated, which makes sense (so does the "schlopp" noise that comes when i pull/push the light plunger switch.

yes, you're right about them not opening up at the same time. First I thought that there was something wrong because the left opened before the right always.. But then I found out they were vaccum operated, which makes sense (so does the "schlopp" noise that comes when i pull/push the light plunger switch.

Where did he go? Was he sent overseas or something?

Thanks for the tip. Now I know where I can find a great ride the next time I'm in your area.

The lights can be opened manually by hand or with the vacuum switch.

I can't remember if the '80 has this or not, but earlier C3s have three controls under the steering column. The outside two are pull down, push up vacuum switches. One opens the wiper tray door (1968-1972) and the other opens the headlights. In '80, there may be one. I don't have one on my '79 but I think someone has changed it. It was included because Chevy advised opening them and leaving them in icy winter conditions.

If that doesn't work, you can reach under the nose and push the lights up. They have a knee-like hinge that locks into the open position. this has to be pulled forward to close them manually by hand.

Chevrolet in the early C3 owner's manuals advised how to do this in event of vacuum actuation failure. Lack of this feature does not make the car unroadworthy, just harder to use, especially if you are in good pants.

Check for vacuum lines off. You will find them at each headlight pod, a vacuum switch in between the headlights under the nose panel, connected to the front bumper torque tube (doubles as a vacuum reservoir), and then back under the dash. There is a check vlave at the intake manifold that looks like a flying saucer with either one tube out top and bottom or one tube out the top and two out the bottom.

Last is like nospam said. Pull (and plug) the vacuum lines off the headlight pods, then open them by hand. They will stay open and you can pass your test.

It's the same as the '79 I have... the lights are air operated. There are a couple of suppliers that have lighting manuals available you can buy that show the routing and operation of the lights. There also is a switch under the dash almost directly in line with the steering wheel that 'once the lights are up' you can pull down that will 'lock' them in place. This was the original 'winter driving' setting.. There a pneumatic operators positioned for each light, as long as they are not failed, the lights should stay in place to get you through inspection.

Paradox wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com:

Suggest that you invest in a "Mity-Vac" tool and the headlight vacuum hose schematic so you can troubleshoot the components in the system. On my '74, one H/L actuator and both vacuum relays were bad. Relays can be fixed by disassembly and greasing the spools with white grease. Also check the front tubular frame crossmember for rust holes or collision damage as it is the vacuum reservoir for the system.

As suggested by another, you can raise them by hand for the time being to get the car plated. Have fun.

Bill