1995 dodge ram 1500

Get one of those handy dandy motor boat gas tank squeeze bulbs, pot some hose on it place on gas tank and pump use as it as a primer to the siphon hoes.

My '95 Ram has an anti-siphon device (screen) in the filler neck... prevents you from getting a hose down into there. I'd disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail, extend it with some tubing into a suitable container, and let the pump run to push all the gas out of the tank (turn the ignition switch to on). Depending on how much gas is in the tank (therefore how long the pump has to run), you may need to charge the battery afterwards.

But before doing that, I'd pull the fuel pump relay, bleed the fuel rail out, spray some starting fluid into the throttle body and see if it fires off then - in other words, try and rule out any other problem before going through the hassle of draining the gas tank.

I would go back to the basics first. Is it flooded? Are you getting spark? Is the gas gauge accurate? I once had a 96 ram 1500 that would run out of gas with the gauge showing

1/4 tank. I would check the basics before you start tearing things apart. There have been millions of engines and transmissions torn apart and removed unessecarily.

Tom Lawrence..thank you good advise ...but I rule out other problems...just asuming water...just came from out side thinking fuel pump ..have you ever replace a fuel pump and at what mileage on a 1995 dodge ram i'am at 133333

Yep - could very well be a fuel pump. In that case, I'd first get a fuel pressure gauge on it, and see what the pressure is in the rail when you try cranking it. Again - you want to make sure of the problem before tearing into it... if the pressure checked out good (between 45 and 50psi), I'd be looking elsewhere (possibly to water contamination, in which case I'd drain the tank as discussed before - assuming the engine fired with starting fluid)

As for replacing the pump, you have two options - either drop the tank or remove the bed. At 133K, those bed bolts are probably pretty rusty (or else that's really the easier method - just a few bolts, disconnect a couple of wiring harnesses, unbolt the filler neck, and four guys can easily lift it off and set it down). If you opt to drop the tank, get as much fuel out of it as you can, and use a floor jack with a piece of plywood on it to support the tank. Remove the two straps, lower it slightly, disconnect the lines and electrical from the top, and pull it out.

From there, you'll have to remove the lock ring (FSM shows a special spanner wrench, but you can tap it off with a screwdriver and a hammer - rotate it counter-clockwise), then pull the whole fuel pump module out. This is serviced as an assembly, so you're looking around the $300 range for a replacement. Replacement is pretty simple (make sure to get a new gasket) - put it back in, put the lock ring back on, tap it snug, and put the tank back up (or the bed back on).

Now, if I were doing this myself, I'd probably see what could be done about removing the fuel pump from that module, bypassing it with some hoses, and installing an external pump right on the frame rail. Not having actually done this, I can't give you any specifics, but I always hated the fact that #1 the pump is inside the tank, and #2 it's not replaceable separately.