Is there a common problem with rear axle failure on these beasts???
I have a 1998 QC 1500 with the chrysler 9.25 rear axle and it started a howl
about a month ago. I can only turn the radio up so far!
Took it to the tire shop and had the tiresbalanced and rotated (for free,
Thank you Discount Tire!) and it still howls.
Jacked it up and ran it in the air (with jackstands, of course) and it
Removed wheels and brake drums and it howls. Removed the drive shaft,
tried turning the pinion and it jerks. Obviously a bad pinion bearing. No
Fluid is full on flat surface (checked it tonight).
I replaced the rear speed sensor about 2-3 months ago, that can't have
Anyone repaired these and successfully solved this issue? My fear is the
ring and pinion are shot also (they're 3.5, according to the tags).
This truck only has 84k miles on it, due to
mostly city driving. I am competent at rebuilding axle assemblies as I have
an inch pound torque wrench,regular torque wrench, bearing press and
pullers. I've built
quite a few ford 8.8 and 9" carrier assemblies but not a Dodge.
Any gotcha's? Pointers? Source for good prices (I'm in Houston, Tx)
Source for a good, moderate priced LSD unit to swap in while I'm doing this?
Thank you for your replies.
Curtis, in Houston,
with a howling Ram (would like it to be quiet)
yes its common for the rears to start howling. as far as prices maybe
someone else who has rebuilt thiers can tell you. now as far as suprises i
dont remember any on the last one i did. pritty standard rear i believe.
On Wed, 28 Jun 2006 01:09:49 -0400, "Christopher Thompson"
Maybe if you never service them. A LOT of rear axle suffer from
neglect as few even check the lube level let alone change it. To late
for this rear axle but do change it regulalry after you get it fixed
and within the first 1500 miles or so after rebuild and ever 20 or 30K
after that depending on usage.
You'll need one "special" tool - that's the rear adjuster tool. Instead of
shims, the Chrysler 9.25" uses a threaded adjuster nut on each side to set
backlash and carrier bearing preload. I made mine from a 4' piece of 3/4"
pipe, a 1/2"-drive socket, and a spindle nut. The adjusters can be backed
off with a punch (they have holes in them that you can engage and lever
against), but you need the tool to tighten to specific torque values. If
you have the means to make your own (just need the listed components, and a
welder), you can remove the diff, remove an adjuster, and find the
proper-sized nut (about 1.5" or so) to fit in the hex opening of the
adjuster. If not, you can buy this tool from a decent R&P shop (Randy's
Ring and Pinion sells them, for example).
The 9.25" also uses a crush sleeve to set the pinion pre-load. You'll need
a pretty powerful impact gun, or a BIG breaker bar to get the spacer to
start collapsing. You'll also need to hold the yoke still while you do
this. A big pipe wrench, and a length of pipe to fit over the wrench and
wedge against the ground, will suffice. Once you overcome the initial
torque and get the spacer to start collapsing, go nice and slow with
torquing the pinion nut down, checking the rotational torque frequently. If
you go too tight, you have to start over with a new crush sleeve. Make sure
to get a few of these, just in case.
While you have the axle all apart, you should get new axle bearings as well.
You'll need a slide hammer with internal puller legs to remove them.
Measure their depth inside the axle (I seem to remember they're set in
.600"), and drive the new ones in with a socket to the same depth (not
super-critical on the depth - give or take .010" or so).
Some torque specs (should really have the factory service manual, though):
Bearing cap bolts - 100ft.lbs. (once backlash is set)
Pinion nut - 210ft.lbs. (starting torque - continue to torque until proper
rotating torque is achieved)
Pinion rotating torque (new bearings) - 15 - 35 in.lbs.
Ring gear bolts - 115 ft.lbs.
Backlash - .005" - .008"
Preload adjusters - 75ft.lbs.
I've done a few 9.25" axles for friends - Randy's R&P
(http://www.ring-pinion.com ) is where I've always ordered the stuff. Decent
prices, but more importantly, good quality gears and installation kits.
What Tom said, plus...
Randy's Ring & Pinion
10411 Airport Road SE
Everett, WA 98204-3540
Hours: M-F 5:30am - 5:00pm Pacific Time
Tech line: 425-347-1199
Sales Fax: 425-347-1440
The crush sleeve used to set the pinion bearing preload has always been an
issue with the 8.75 (tapered pinion gearset only) and 9.25" assemblies. Over
time, they lose their crush, the nut holding the pinion flange loosens, and
then the pinion starts backing up toward the differential. This is *very*
common. You can't just retighten the nut, as the sleeve has already been
crushed. But, the good news is, there's a permanent fix. Ratech makes a
solid spacer that replaces the crush sleeve (the pinion bearing preload is
then set using shims.) For the 9.25" axle, it's Ratech PN 4109 (Summit
Racing handles it).
#1 - Check everything. I swore my 9.25" was dead once the howl was so
unbearable. Ended up being a trashed u-joint - was jammed up tight
enough the crawl-under-and-shake test didn't work, the only way I could
find it was jacking the truck up and watching the drive shaft.
#2 - Houston is one big junkyard. You should be able to find a used
axle dirt cheap, and they're not that hard to swap if its a dud. I was
able to get a 21k mile flood-damage-total NV3500 for about the same as
the dealer quoted for just the base overhaul parts.
If you plan to keep the truck forever I'd say overhaul it with the best
parts you can afford but otherwise IMO its just not worth it...
Curtis D wrote:
Thanks to all that replied..
I've ordered the complete bearing set and am going to tackle it this
I pulled the cover and checked the pattern on the gears and so far they
Thanks to Tom Lawrence for the detailed instructions. I'll build the tool
also to make
the job easier.
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