Latest update on RE47

Well its not metric. Some freaking idiot stripped the head.

Any suggestions on getting it off besides vise grip wrench?

I guess someone helped themselves to my freaking tools as my craftman vise grips are missing.

back the the freaking store wasting more time.

That filter doesn't look unusual. The metal on the drain plug is normal, given that it wears over time from the steels in the clutch packs. Since you don't have any metal chips or lots of friction material, I'd suspect a bad seal on the clutch apply pistons, or a TC malfunction. Testing the apply pressures with a guage should tell you if a seal is gone. In addition, if you remove the VB, you can air test the clutches. The FSM has more details on that; if you don't have the FSM, either TomL or I can guide you through the process, and supply pics. However, both of us will strongly recommend this less-than-$100 purchase.

In short, if you air test the clutches, you should hear a satisfying thump when you apply about 40PSI. If a hissing noise up in the case follows, you have a bad seal. If you get no thump, its toast.

Please go ahead and guide me through. I am not at my place of home residence and now walking everywhere I go. I don't think anywhere has a FSM nearby except maybe the NAPA down the road.

What would fail in the TC? Stator? Is there a sound that would not be normal? I can hear a slight "turbine" when reving engine. I don't even have a compressor, looks like I will have to go and buy one now.

Thanks a lot for the help so far.

ok, what sort of net access do you have presently? If its high speed, I know of a site that would have the FSM online.

Failing that, I can send pics of the FSM in the important parts. Drop me an email at my email listed here, snipped-for-privacy@Verizon.net, and I'll give ya all the info I can.

Air testing of main trans:

Across the forward end of the trans, where the VB mates to the case, there is a "rail", with ports in it. From the servo end (side with dipstick fill tube) its bolt hole, pump suction, pump pressure, bolt hole, FRONT CLUTCH APPLY, REAR CLUTCH APPLY. These are the ones that matter.

Around the accumulator, which is the piston that lost the spring when you dropped the VB out, there are two large odd shaped holes. To the pan rail side, you'll see two ports, one forward, one aft, of the accumulator. These are the Servo apply ports. These will activate the bands, front and rear. That covers all of the main trans air tests.

I'd do those checks, and reassemble the trans with good fluid and filter. Then, disconnect the battery for 5-20 minutes. This will clear the PCM and eliminate the possibility that the PCM got "confused" and failed to deal with line pressure and governor solenoids.

If none of this solves the problem, I'll go into other details. However, this would narrow it to TC or OD unit, assuming no problem with electronics.

I do have high speed so you can just send me the link and I will get working on the other tests tomorrow. Will I need a special adapter or just shoot air in with those air gun adapters?

Thanks again

All those pics indicate a normally operating trans. Good fluid color, no dirt or debris.... I doubt you are having a clutch problem, since this would normally put dirt all over the pan and VB.

This leaves pressure and control problems.

Select the 03 manual by scrolling the left frame down. Its a pdf. The 03 manual has the 46 and 48RE in it, which is the same control systems as your

47RE. Section 21 is the trans section.

If you have an air nozzle with the rubber cone, that will work fine. Be careful not to use too much pressure, as this can be damaging.

Email me direct if you have questions, as I'll see it faster than the NG posting.

I am NOT a transmission expert like Max but even I can see that those pictures look like a normally operating trans and I'm still betting on the TC being the problem. If it is, you will find little to no pressure anywhere in the trans as it is no longer driving it or driving it with almost no force. If it is a control problem, then ignore me and just listen to Max as he knows much more about transmissions then I do.

I just hope not. That DTT TC costs $1000, though the stator has a lifetime warranty. I don't know if you read my post from Thursday, but I tried the truck again and it drove. I took it 10 feet, put it in reverse and put it back in place. Would not move again. That makes me think it is not the TC, but I could be wrong.

"I Could Be Wrong" - Title of a great song by Tim Wilson.

I did read your post which further made me believe that the problem exists in the TC. The way it tried to move and then the sudden failure again does not appear to me to be due mechanical problems with the trans itself and I would think that control issues like this should flag some trouble code. Something in the TC could have settled over the time you let it sit and gave it enough "bite" to drive the trans again although not with full power. It looks like after you shifted the trans the shock shook it free and it went back to "full slip" mode again. I had a similar experience with a vehicle of my own which made me look at this as a probable cause of your problem as well and a simple pressure test after you put it back together should confirm it.

I am by no means a transmission guy but thinking back, didn't you post something about no power while towing? DTT makes a tc for specific applications. If you have one of the go fasr or tight tc's and used it for towing well.... If it turns out that it is a tc failure, you might want to get one that is designed for that purpose or back off a bit. I used one that was dialed in for plowing and some towing, it also hooked up real well m/t. You might want to give them a call, I think you'll find that they will take care of you on the price. They are real good folks to deal with

"You May Be Right" - Title of a great song by Billy Joel.

:-) Craig C.

Actually, the shell of the TC drives the pump via the snout. So an internal failure of the TC would not drop line pressure. Pressure should be found in the accumulator tap plug, assuming the truck is in any forward range. The whining noise also makes me interested in the TC being the failure point.

Ok, that makes sence. Thanks for pointing that one out for me.

I forgot about him mentioning that symptom. When the TC failed on my Nissan it made no noise at all but had identical symptoms otherwise. Actually, I didn't know it was the TC and removed the trans and took it to a rebuilder (as I said, I'm no trans expert) and he asked for the TC. He rebuilt the trans (it had over 100,000 anyway) and replaced the TC. After about a month or so I came to the conclusion that the trans was probably fine and the TC is what had failed (just after I passed someone on a two lane highway) so now I look there first when the failure is sudden, complete, and silent.