Sorry - all I've got is from the Dodge service manuals, which use the NP241.
But, it you're sure it's leaking at the output shaft, and a new seal doesn't
fix it, then either the seal was defective/not installed properly, or
there's a gouge in the output shaft allowing fluid to leak by the seal.
Low voltage indicates a lean mixture. It could also be caused by a wiring
problem... the output wire from the O2 sensor shorting (or partially
shorting) to ground will drop the voltage.
It could also be the O2 sensor is just going bad, and not generating the
proper voltage to indicate the correct A/F mixture
Output shaft is as smooth as a babys butt. Seal looks ok, but I know
that doesn't make it so. Something isn't right, I just have to figure
No indications of it running lean, but I will have it is scanned
again, guess I am crawling under it (again) this weekend. That's ok,
I need to replace the muffler anyway, so..
I wonder if the guys that replaced my cat on Saturday screwed up the
right rear O2 sensor, but that should/wouldn't cause the same reading
on the left rear, would it? I wouldn't think so. Hmmm, maybe they
are going out on me, 180k I guess it is possible.
HUH? You lost me, which is not hard to do today. The seal is new,
just not aftermarket, it's dealer item only and had to order that
one. To boot the damn thing cost me 60 bucks and that was at their
cost as I am good friends with the parts guys.
It's round and black is that good?
Yeah, it's similar to that but though they say you should use a seal
puller to remove it, you don't have to use one and if you are careful
you will not damage it. There is a metal flange in the seal that
sits against the output snout and it is a little bigger in diameter
then the snout. About the size of a small oil filter socket if that
The leak is coming through where the yoke goes into the seal, not
around it. So I just have to figure out why, it could be a bad seal
again, but want to fix the cause not just band-aide it, I drive WAY
too much (150 a day just to and from work).
U-joint are relatively new, replaced them both last summer and just checked
for slop in the caps and greased them this past weekend. I will have to
pull the drive shaft down this weekend and see if there is any play on the
output shaft in the t-case. Might have a bearing or something in the case
that is going out due to play.
While you have it out you might want to index it in case it is out a bit.
That could cause the yoke to move around. Then again you could have screwed
up when ya put it back together. Probably weren't practicing Buddism and was
Because it is the only vehicle I have and I do not have the ability to
purchase a different one. Anyway, what difference does it make what I
am driving, how far, how long or for what reason to you. You drive
what you want and I'll do the same!
Oh yeah, lets do some math here. I have a 26 gallon tank, get 400
miles per tank which means that I am getting some where around 15 - 16
mpg. If I were to get "a proper commuter car" that got say 30 mpg but
only had say a 15 gallon tank, I really am not doing much better. I
would have to fill up just as many time, just as often, what would I
Actually I sat down and figured it out Roy, I really would not save
much. Right now, I fill up Sunday everning, which lasts me until
Wednesday morning, using the math above, knowing that it is a 73 mile
(one way) trip, Iwould still be filling up just as often. Also using
the math above, filling up the "car" would cost me about 300 a month,
compared to 520 a momth with the truck. Yeah the savings of 220 a
month would be nice, but what kind of car am I going to get for that?
To save that money I would have to not drive the truck, so how would I
get to work? I don't have the money to shell out for a "commuting
car" unless RICHARD is going to give up. Besides, I hope to be
landing a perm position here and if that happens I am moving close
enough to ride my motorcycle, so...
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