I am having trouble with a passenger side pop-up headlight. It was in
a wreck and I have been rebuilding it. I thought the motor for the
headlight worked, it spun around and everything but when attached to
the headlight itself it will only go down when it is cranked up. Even
after that it won't move after that up or down. I crank it open again
and it does the same thing. I noticed that there was a wire stretched
accross from the 3 prong plug of the driver's side to the passenger
side. I am not sure how it goes on if it does or if its needed.
Please note that there are 2 and 3 prong plug motors when I found out
the hard way. Could I have a bad motor? How does the green wire come
into play? I went to the junkyard to look at a similar one and there
is no extra wire for the 3 prong motor.
Also any tips on keeping the headliner in the inside from coming down?
Also I am trying to recharge the A/C and would like to know details on
how to recharge it. I have the new kit but I am not sure where the
hose attaches to. It blows hot right now. I was told it had to be
evacauated first, but this has to be done at a shop. I would like to
do this at home if possible. Any tips?
The check engine light also comes on. Even though the engine passed
emissions. Any way to get that light turned out?
When the engine is turned over a click and a whirl comes from under
the dashboard up top. Any idea what that is and how to fix?
Also any tips on making it faster would be helpful. I can get good
add on parts at the junk yard so far.
I am also removing a fender bolt that is rusted solid. Last bolt that
needs to come out so I can either replace or pound out the fender.
Any tips on that?
I have digital pics if anybody wants to look at them for ideas of any
of the problem areas.
Thanks in advance!
I ended up getting another motor anyway for the light.
I will try and glue the underneath of the felt, I was hoping to be
able to spray something from the outside of it without peeling it off.
Are you saying that I need to replace the fuel pump relay or actually
leave it off? Why would I not need it?
I was using a 19 amp cordless drill, I can't seem to drill into the
bolt, what kind of bit should I use? Does it matter? Do I really
need to push into the bolt? I don't want to damage anything.
As for making it faster, is there a speed website for improving
engines? Something that talks about replacing parts or getting what I
need to make the engine faster. Repair manual does not do that.
Maybe some kind of street racing website?
My budget would be under $500. The junkyard I goto seems to get
birds, AM's and Cameros all the time. Just wondering what to pull to
make me faster. The engine I have is 6 cylinders I know. Have to
look to see what size. I just want to know in general what to add on
or replace. Not looking to change the engine either just simple
I also got that headlight to work right. I guess that wire helps it
go up and down after all for unknown reason. Not sure why they have
to be connected together. Must have been a prior prob for somebody.
Also I am working on A/C next. Right now it blows heat for A/C. Does
that mean I can change to the new stuff w/o having to evacuate it? If
you can give me tips on that that would be cool.
There is nothing "simple" you can do to get the increase in power like you
want on a 6.
Umm...it MIGHT be powering the motor????
It MIGHT be a ground for it?
You can kiss your $500 bux bye on the AC repair, as this is one area a
newbie does not need to be playing and learning....IF you want it to work.
If you cant spell CAMARO right, I doubt seriously you will be able to evac
and recharge your system.
IF the systems been down more than 24 hours and has a leak, and lets say
that its got atmosphere into the system, meaning, no pressure, the dryer
will have to be replaced, the leak found, the system leak repaired, the
system evacuated, and the system charged. IF you change over to the "new
stuff", that aint that new, meaning, 134a, and not 416 for example, you will
also ned to change out the coil in the system...as good old mineral oil that
was originally used in the unit wont work with 134a, and will have to be an
ester based oil. IF you go the correct route, R12, you will need to be
licenced and while its not a big deal, its best left to someone with a
clue...meaning, someone that has experence in this, otherwise, you will be
wondering why the compressors locked, or why its making funny noises...
Of course, it could be something simple, like a bad clutch coil, a bad LP
switch, or the like....but if you have to ask, its best left to a shop that
deals in that, and someone you can trust.
Well as a newb I think I am doing ok. I got the driver's seat changed
from the broken one. Pulled off the damaged front bumper, passenger
side fender and headlight and changed them. I just need a little
instruction is all.
I will prob go with a service guy for the a.c I guess. I do think its
just out of R-12.
On 12 Aug 2003 11:18:34 -0700, firstname.lastname@example.org (Vile) wrote:
It may be that your system is "just out of gas" but all ac systems are
hermetic or sealed. If there is no refrigerant in the system or if it
is low on charge then there is a leak which if not repaired WILL cause
the compressor and/or other components to fail. It's possible that
the system under these conditions will not cool efficiently ever again
with out replacing the whole system.
Do yourself a favor and maybe even future owners and have the repairs
68' RS Camaro
88' Formula Bird
Some are wise and some are otherwise
I also have an oil leak I am going to tackle. I beleve its a head
gasket. Any tips for doing that?
I looked around on the web and it seems that exhaust can increase
horsepower? Any suggestions for what type of exhaust to get for this
86 Firebird that is a V6? I guess the way to search for improvements
is Firebird performance. Is there a way to measure horsepower? What
tools or things needed for that? Again if I can I want to pull from
the junkyard. Does the carborator have anything to do with increasing
Also still wondering about that noise under the dash that whirrs when
it starts up then stops. Is that really the fuel relay and should I
replace it not remove it?
I still have a rusty bolt on the driver's side fender I want removed
w/o hurting the fender so I can pound it out. I need the right size
drill bit for removing it or just drilling into it. The bolt is about
the size of half a pinky finger. Does coke really help with rusty
The drooping headliner does not seem to glue with spray glue. I think
I will use some pins to hold it up. Any other type of glue that is
good for holding it up?
If no ideas from anybody this is still a good place to post my
thoughts on my progress. To keep as a log if anything. Always have
to learn the hard way I guess.
I've been where you are... still am in some cases.. I've "learned the hard
way" lots with my car.. but 5 years and its still running like a dream.
These things take lots of time, reading, RESEARCH, RESEARCH, RESEARCH, Umm..
did I mention research?, money, and patients. About the exhaust for the
(most likely 2.8L?) you aren't going to get a whole lot for the
cost/performance ratio. About the oil leak, get it looked at... headgaskets
are not something to really screw with if you don't know what you are doing.
You can go to some shops to have your car "dynoed" which from what I
understand will tell you your HP, torque.. etc.. but obviously its not free.
Oh, and I would suggest starting off with getting a good set of wrenches and
sockets (craftsman is a good choice) Sounds like you don't have a lot at
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