I have a '93 Aerostar 3.0 and my heater is broken. I live in Florida so it's
not a huge deal. I figured I'd try one of those 12 volt ceramic heaters. I
figured the more watts a model is rated at, the more heat it would put out.
I found a RoadPro model that's 300 watts! So what is the most watts I could
A. I plug it into my cigarette lighter outlet (that circuit might not handle
B. If I wired it right to my battery
Divide watts by 14 to get amps... which is what you are needing to know.
300 watts would mean about 28 (IOW 30) amps.
What about your heater is broken?
look above, I just did one... the aerostar heater is about the easiest to
work on that I've ever seen.
- Yes, I'm a crusty old geezer curmudgeon.. deal with it! -
Thanks for doing the math for me. Now I know the formula. So other than
thick cable and a high amp fuse, I should be alright running 22 amps from my
battery? I was worried the alternater might not even be able to keep up with
that kind of power consumption. One more question Backyard Mechanic, many
ceramic heaters are meant to just plug into the cigarette lighter. How many
amps can that outlet handle? Probably less than if I hard wired it to the
I think the heater core is clogged. Maybe I'll fix it but I thought a 12
volt heater would be an immediate quick fix. Plus they do heat
Did you already buy the heater? Or just looking? the jc whitney
catalog has some plug ins for lighter, as well as multi socket
adapters so you can run more than one appliance from the lighter. I
have seen the adapters in other catalogs as well (jegs for one, as
well as some of the Mustang parts vendors like NPD national parts
depot). Just an input not an endorsement. Personally, I would rather
fix the original, or even replace it from a salvage yard possibly...
On Mon, 20 Dec 2004 02:49:32 GMT, "Matt Collins"
Hey! Spikey Likes IT!
1965 Ford Mustang fastback 2+2 A Code 289 C4 Trac-Lok
Vintage Burgundy w/Black Standard Interior
Vintage 40 Wheels 16X8"
w/BF Goodrich Comp T/A Radial 225/50ZR16
Yes, they heat instantly - but how many BTUs of heat do you get,
compared to the factory heater. 3413 btus per kw. The heater is .6KW
if 600 watts, so roughly 2050 BTU, and .3KW at 300 watts is 1025BTU.
Not very much heat, compared to 13,000-60,000 BTUs for standard
I just took the cover off my heater core to see what I was looking at
workwise. Doesn't look too difficult. My Chilton's book says to plug the
hoses before I replace it. Is that to prevent coolant from spilling into my
interior? I'm checking into replacement cores now. Yeah, ceramic heaters
probably can't comptete with a factory system.
Unless yours is set up much different than mine is, the hoses connect in the
engine compartment.. it is not necessary to even drain the coolant as the
hoses taken up out of the way are higher than coolant level
Doesnt yours have quick connects? Did you read my post on changing the
remember that those books use a lot of boilerplate instructions
Those are the same directions as my Haines book, but with better pictures. I
shouldn't have wasted $ on the book! I bought a heater core today at
Discount Auto Parts, it was $31.88. Those tubes stick out far out of the
heater core. I see why now, they go completely through the firewall and the
hoses clamp right on those tubes, beautiful. As for the clamps, I didn't see
if they were quick connect, they just looked like those typical metal kind.
Tomorrow I'll begin the surgery. I'll let you know how it goes.
Well no luck, and unfortunately I think I wasted 31.88 also. Those quick
connects were a bitch to get off, even with the special tool. I finally got
the replacement core on and it wasn't getting hot. Then I realized, the main
hose coming off the water pump isn't even getting hot. I had the radiator
and thermostat replaced, coolant flushed, heater core changed and still no
heat. Do you know what else it could be? I'm going to start researching it
I am hoping for some advice on how to get the heater above luke-warm in
my flex-fuel 2000 Taurus. I replaced antifreeze and let it idle with
cap of for 20 minutes or more, squeezed hose to burp it.
Heats some, gets colder when I turn temp control lower.
Heater temp control seems to move the arm under the dash. Only puts out
warm air for about 30 seconds after turning from OFF to ON. It acts
like there is an air bubble in the heater core to me... ?
Help... It's cold here in MN!
whats your temp gauge reading when engine warm , low????
Could b t-stat or blocked heater core
What was the color of the coolant ?????/
Try back flush heater core if that doesnt help replace........
See other message in this group
My coolant was a little low so I topped it off, let it cool and topped it
off again. At least now after 10 minutes of idling, I'm getting hot fluid
coming through the top radiator hose. But the hoses going to the heater core
are still cool! I don't know what could be blocking them.
Read back-flush suggestion but I don't think the core would get that
much blockage so quickly, and coincidenatl with coolant change.
Engine is warming fully, and heater hoses are hot. There is fluid at
the top hose where it connects to metal pipe, but that pipe turns down
to there still could be air in the core. Any experience with coolant
flow control switch?
PS: anyone know how to get this out of the "ceramic heater" thread? I
did that by mistake but intended it to have it's own new thread.
I'll asume you've replaced the thermostat or at least had no trouble with ot
or block temp prior to the change, so.......
This probem is consistant with the 3.8. You must open the bleeder on the
thermostat housing with the engine running (but not hot). When the
thermostat opens the trapped air will gurgle and spit out at you. Add more
coolant to the rad and Robert is your Mom's brother.
You have to start a new thread with a new message. Replying to previous
messages leaves a growing list of references, which is what constructs
threads. Some people on various mailing lists do that -- reply and change
the subject instead of just starting a new message. It's annoying.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.