95 Crown Vic Starting Problem

HELP ! I'm not a rocket scientist when it comes to cars but I'm not completly lost usually. Long story to save time. Last week my wife went to start the car and
when she turned the key the fuel pump relay started clicking. Those are cheap so replaced that.Same thing turn the key relay clicked. But I'm stubborn kept trying to start it anywayt key on key off over and over eventually relay quit clicking engine turned over but wouldn't start sometimes heard the fuel pump come on sometimes didn't. Eventually got it to start run like crap died stared again died. My irginal diagnosis was fuel pump but when it started I didn't think that was the problem. But, my brother said the pump could still be the problem so I replaced it (not cheap).
1) replaced fuel pump relay $ 10 2) replaced fuel pump $200 3) Getting piece of metal removed from my eye $300 4) duckbiill removal tool, misc tools $40 5) replced brake line my brother broke helping me $50
Put the new fuel pump in same problem clickety click or turn over no start. I have a code reader when I did get the car to run for a minute " No Codes". My code reader even has several diagnostics it can run "No Problems" . Then why doen;t my car run. Next I replaced the crankshaft Position Sensor...nothing. Next I replced the camshaft Position SensorVoila the car started first try thought thank you god...too soon. The car ran for like 3 minutes died and won't start.Now when I turn the key the relay doesn't click but the fuel pump is not turning on either. In previous attempts to start I noticed it was not shutting off after 3 secs like it's supposed too. Pump is still fine I jumpered the relay to give it power and it runs if I do that. To recap: 1) replaced fuel pump relay $ 10 2) replaced fuel pump $200 3) Getting piece of metal removed from my eye $300 4) duckbiill removal tool, misc tools $40 5) replced brake line my brother broke helping me $50 6) replaced crankshaft Sensor and camshaft sensor $40
I'm bleeding money here please help
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Ign switch, maybe?
;) No not the key cylinder... the switch. Get a test lite and hook to a switched 12v to the ccrm
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If I have a constant control relay module I don't know where it is and it's not listed in my shop manual has a ccrm, ircm or relay module of any kind. There is a block with 3 relays next to my icm. eec relay has 12v, fuel pump relay has 12v but the air conditioning cut off has 0v if that means anything. I think it's got to be the pcm the icm or the actual ignition switch but I don't know how to test them.
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

Do you see a pigtail near your fuse block under the hood? that would bypasss the fuel pump relay. monitor that thing for 12v when cranking. If you have voltage there work your way back through the inertia switch then to the pump. monitoring this would eliminate or confirm the wiring back to the pump. (u said u hot wired the pump and it runs?....where did you hotwire it?
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ShoeSalesman wrote:

I pulled the relay and used a jumper wire to bypass it. I have 12v getting to the relay. But it's not getting a signal from the ignition to open and send power to the pump.
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snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

hope this will help. this info is from a 97 book (CV gas) yours is VERY likely the same.
There is a LB/O (light blue with an orange stripe) going from the relay to the PCM. The PCM grounds this wire to turn on the pump. There is a red wire that provides power to the coil side of the relay.
Aparently you know that the other power is good because you used it to bypass the relay.
If what you say is for sure true so far it seems it would be a bad connection in that LB/O going to the PCM or a bad connection on that wire at the relay or PCM OR that the PCM is not grounding it for some reason. double check you powers first though.
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