Really? How will it not be? It's not buried under the car. It does not go to the
back of the vehicle. It's right there in the engine compartment, nicely bundled
in the harness. Is the harness damaged? That's kind of obvious. Is the harness
laying on the hot exhaust manifold? That would be obvious as well. Also, I can
bet your next pay check there will be other problems. It should be obvious why a
visual check is one of the FIRST parts of diagnosis.
Now lets assume you are saying that using voltqage drops are the best way to
test for high resistance is bull shit.
There are a whole bunch more, gee all saying the same thing! Imagine that. It's
better to diagnose an electrical problem using voltage drops! Go ahead, keep
using that OHM meter wrong.
When's the last time you were under the hood of one of these vans? First,
the wiring harness is NOWHERE near either of the exhaust manifolds so that
isn't even possible. Second, the goddamn harness is way back in the engine
bay, under the cowl and the latter part of it is behind the master
cylinder.........................not exactly easy to get at.
Work on them quite a lot. It's not as bad as you describe. Obviously you do not
know what you are looking at, the injector harness and engine harness does not
go around the master cylinder. It's quite open and not that bad to get to. If
fact it's very close to a Taurus/Sable.
I didn't put words in your mouth, You said bull-shit to what I wrote. I
challenged. What then were you saying bull-shit too then?
Really? which model? The 260 Analog? The 6XLP? The 8P? Don't try to impress me
with a multimeter name and series number. The most important part of a meter is
it's accuracy and the user. How accurate should the DC range of a meter be? Do
you know why? Hint, the links I posted tells a little about it. Electronics
schools teach the same thing...........oh those are electronics schools, not the
classes taught by manufactures like.....Ford or GM or just about any you want to
Which would you recommend ?
I've got a 260-3, 260-4, 260-6, 260-7, 260-8, 260 XLP
or would a Tripplet 303 be better ?
it's apparent that the remark about the Simpson scared the living bejesus
out of you, else you wouldn't be so defensive
don't presume to lecture me about 'electronics schools'...............I went
to one for 2 years, 4 hours a day, from 9/68 to 8/70, back when electronics
schools actually taught volts, ohms, amps, henries, farads, AM, FM, TV
(NTCS), and all the other basics that modern-day 'electronics schools' have
no time for, being more interested in the latest CPU
What no answer? What in my statement was bull-shit? Call this bull-shit and
prove it is...........He didn't even need a volt or ohm meter to diagnose his
problem. All he needed was the noid light he already used. Hell, the answer to
his question is in the first post. There was absolutely zero need for any more
diagnosis with any other tool.
That is very funny, BTW answer the question posed above you have ignored.
So then what is the answer? That is three questions you ignored.
Now then being you went to school when "real" electronics were taught the above
questions should be no problem. The fact is you have tried very unsuccessfully
to challenge anything I have said.
No answer? What your 30+ year old analog meter fail you? That problem I only
dreamed of bugging you? Hint there are only three some times four wires in a
house circuit. Need help with the colors? What should one be looking for in a
meter and why? You went to school answer the questions I posed, you jumped in
and started this shit, now finish.
#1 is 75
#2 is 101
#3 is 74
#4 is 100
#5 is 73
Does not matter 3.0 or 3.8 pin locations are the same.
Notice I did not give #6, lets see if you can. I can give the color codes as
well, but again, you don't need them, if you have a clue.
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