1998 Ford Taurus
3.0 V6 OHV
Daughter ran the car hot for about 2 miles - 35MPH max, came home and
shut off engine. Made no sounds other than steam - no bearing wash I
Radiator is empty and water is clearly in the oil - pulled dipstick.
I'm thinking a blown head gasket. I drain the oil (about 3 gallons of
oil/water mixture) - looks just like chocolate milk.
I take the intake(upper/lower) off and inspect the gaskets. They look
Take both heads off and both head gaskets look fine. Now, I'm a bit
concerned. Crack in the block? It looks fine around where the heads
A friend, retired GM mechanic said he's seen a few cases where the
front cover (covering timing chain/belt) can leak water into the
engine. Other than an obvious crack, how would I determine if this is
the source of my water into the engine?
Any other thoughts?
One other thing. The water pump impeller had a couple blades that
looked like they were "peeling" away. And where the impeller and front
cover meet, it looks like a groove has been ground (in a circle) in the
I think you either need to take the engine out and have it professionally
rebuilt or get a replacement engine. The fact of the matter is that you
probably have damage to the main and rob bearings. Plus, the water may have
been in the oil longer than you think. Unless there was a wide open crack
that developed suddenly, there was probably water in the oil for a few
hindered miles, at least.
The car has been sitting for about 2 years. It just came out of the
shop and received an oil change. Nothing was noted during this time, so
I doubt this was a slow leak, rather, it just happened. I believe it
has about 2 miles on it when the leak occurred. There's a deep gouge
where the hole is like one of the separating blades (off the impeller)
finally broke off and created the hole.
Being a 3.0 instead of a 3.8 gives you a running chance. Put a new
front cover and waterpump on it, put it back together and put a quart
of MMO in with the first oil. Use cheap oil if you like - it will only
be in long enough to get it good and warm. My recommendation is 10W40
or straight 30 with the MMO. Drive the car untill fully warmed up
(gently) then let idle for about 10 minutes before draining the oil.
Then put in 5w30 and Lucas oil stabilizer. Change after 1000 miles.
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Okay, that hole behind the water pump certainly explains the coolant
in the oil source - you hope. Put the cooling system back together,
pump it up with air and check for any other leaks.
If you are not sure how long the coolant had been in the oil, myself
I'd drop the oil pan and take a look around in the bottom end, perhaps
take off a few bearing caps and look for signs of oil starvation and
scuffing wear. Special attention to the main bearings at the far end
of the oil galleries - they will get the least oil.
If it all looks good - no scoring the cylinder walls, heads nice and
flat, etc., button the engine back up and run it - but do a baseline
cylinder leakdown test and compression check, pull the valve covers
with the engine running and make sure you have oil to the far ends of
the rocker galleries.
If the car doesn't have both dashboard water temperature and oil
pressure gauges (only idiot lights) mount mechanical gauges where you
can watch them while driving.
Watch it carefully for several weeks, monitor /all/ the fluids on
/every/ startup and shutdown...
This would NOT be the time to let the wife or daughter drive the car
around, because they are more likely to miss the signs and symptoms of
more serious problems developing until it's too late.
I've always wondered why cars don't monitor coolant pressure as well
as temperature - that can flag leaks like you had. If the pressure
doesn't jive with the temperature, there's a leak somewhere. It would
be trivial for the ECU to spot a temperature/pressure mis-match and
flag a slow leak or a bad radiator cap.
--<< Bruce >>--
Just providing an update:
Engine is back together. I put in oil and quart of engine cleaner, ran
for 10 min and drained. I then added a new oil filter, 10w30 oil and
1/2 qt Lucas Oil treatment.
The vehicle has 300 miles since the fix and everything is doing well.
The oil looks nice and clean. I'm going to change the oil again at 1000
About the only thing I need to do (again), is flush the cooling system
which still has some oil residue.
Shop estimate: $1,200.00
Me (parts & tools I needed to buy): less than $500
One final note, this was a very labor intensive job.
Dont forget to retighten the head after a while say 5000 KMS or whatever
they recommend these days, to make sure its nice and tight.
This needs to be done so it will last longer and wont burn out earlier.
It will then be a top job!
Righto! I hope youre right as they still only seem to last 200000 KMS
plus or minus 10 percent and this was advised for engines in the 60's.
So is it a furphy whats being advised these days or am I being super
suspicious of the engine manufacturers motives?
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.