88...hmmm Is that CFI? Does it have an idle kicker motor? You say it idles
a little higher when cold? Could be the ECU dosent know the ac is on, it is
also possible that it doesnt care....Maybe you should post what engine, fuel
injection type for us....might help.
I suppose it would help to tell about the motor.
Its a 5.O HO EFI just like the Mustangs. It is the speed density also.
No mass air sensor. They have the EEC IIV computer in them.
Anyway the thing idles up when its cold like it should. So that tells
me the iac is working. Im sure theres some sensor that is supposed to
tell the iac to bring up the idle when the A/C comes on.
It drops after about 15 seconds or so. Always has on first startup.
But when I hit the A/C button the idle dont kickup so in turn the idle
is to low due to the extra drag of the compressor. Its got to be a
signal not getting back to the EEC.
If it has idle problems, clean throttle bore and IAC. Then take it for a
ride so it can re-learn to its new, clean self. Normally (on newer vehicles)
the computer actually controlls the AC compressor, I kind of doubt it on the
eeeK 3 though, the AC compressor probably sends the 12v sig to the ECM. It
should keep the idle steady when the AC is on, it's put in drive or rev, hit
the cig lighter, ect. not really "kick it up" .
Aaargghh! I dont understand this whole thing!
The 88 is full EECIV. On ANY I've ever owned or seen the idle stays
constant A/C clutch on or off! It's a V8 so it should be about 600-650 RPM
I think our friend is used to carb type "kickers"
I think you are dead on backyard.
Just so Mach 1 knows, you can generate a code during the KOER test by
leaving the AC ON during the test. The test wants you to turn off the AC.
If you leave it on during the test it will set a code for seeing the AC on.
That is how you could check to see if it knows when the AC is on. BTW, if it
sees a idle control problem it will set a code for that too. Also, clean the
throttle bore so your minimum air is correct again.
Does the car have a real drivability problem?
Is the horse dead yet?
I think so.....
No drivability problems except I have not been using the A/C afraid
that the motor will die in traffic.
I didnt get a chance to try anything yesterday. You have a good point
about starting tests while A/C is on.
Fortunatly I have a complete emmissions book from Helms which is good
for tracking down defective sensors.
I did spray carb cleaner into the intake right at the butterfly and
also into the iac port. Im thinking I will take iac completely off and
do a more though cleaning.
I read that a map sensor could be at fault also. Possibly some vacumn
hoses leaking too.
And its possibile the idle rpm is just to low to begin with.
On Tue, 16 Aug 2005 06:52:04 GMT, "Shoe Salesman"
Yes, it could be too low because the throttle bore is dirty. If no one has
messed with the idle screw it will be back to normal. There is most likely a
minimum air procedure to set it by the book, follow it closely if so. But I
would first clean the IAC and bore well. Then drive it with the air on for a
while and see what it does. If it dies at first give it a chance for a few
stop and goes. If it keeps dieing, set the minimum air. If it still dies I
would replace the IAC. You could skip to the last step (replace IAC) and it
will probably fix it. Since you have the book it would be good to follow it
by symptom (low/erratic idle or something similar), try to understand WHY
you are doing each step,that way it will teach you allot about EEC4 Fords-
that's for sure. It kind of amazing really, if you follow the steps exactly
in the book, the car will diagnose itself.
Its been well worth the money I paid for the emmissions book. It
explains how to set the base idle.
I also did a code read and it showed a 32 which is the EGR sensor.
I guess a step at a time.
And now it looks like Im going to have to tear the dash out now.
My climate control is showing a code that the defroster door isnt
And sure enough, it want blow air up thru it. I had to do this once
before replacing the heater core. Talk about a nightmare.
I remember on the older Fords an EGR code (whether the EGR actually leaked
or not) would cause idle problems. It was like they rigged the thing to idle
rough so you would take it in. (No kidding) And remember I said the EGR did
NOT have to leak. A common problem was the sensor that is mounted on top of
the EGR (position sensor) would read the valve was slightly open. The fix
was to grind about a 1/16 to 1/8 of an inch off of the tip of the sensor
pintle. Clear the codes and re-run the self tests. If no codes, ....fixed.
Remember to run the KOEO first, fix any codes there, then go to the KOER.
Also, fix codes in numerical order, low number first. Bottom line, if you
have codes fix it, it will probably fix your idle problem.
Or make a spacer to hold the sensor out just a bit just to see.
I worked 5 1/2 hours last night tearing out the dash. And its still
not all back in. My god, I would hate to see what a dealer would
charge to do this. It is one job I dont want anyone to have to
And after all that, the motor I was checking works ok when wired
directly to 12v. Dammit.
On Wed, 17 Aug 2005 12:32:42 GMT, "Shoe Salesman"
The actuator has 5 wires, 2 for the motor and 3 for the feedback circuit. It's
feedback potentiometer that usually fails. The motor will operate normally but
EATC controller doesn't know what position the door is in. The blend door
my 84 Mark has an open feedback pot. It sets a code in the EATC but it works
as far as I can tell. IIRC the blend actuator and the mode actuator are the
you know the blend actuator is good, swap them. The blend actuator is accessable
without removing the inst. panel. I've had my inst panel out twice. Loads of fun.
Well there is no way you can get to that door without removing the
entire dash. I know, I spent 3 hours removing the dash and console,
and I spent another 5 hours reinstalling then another 2 hours
yesterday still installing and Im still not done.
I removed the motor that opens and closes that door and connected it
to the battery and it worked fine, dammit.
So, anyway it appears to be working now its back togeather.
Maybe just the fact that I tore into all this made something work, I
I do know I have really enjoyed this car, its just got way to many
things under the dash. Trust me I have pictures.
On Thu, 18 Aug 2005 17:33:02 -0400, Tom Adkins
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