This is more of a Sherlock Holmes type mystery than a practical matter.
Neighbor has a leaking head gasket in his Buick bad enough so that the engine runs rough all the time. Watch does with it is not my concern.
When driving it runs cool. When sitting idling the temp increases rapidly. If he puts in neutral and revs the engine, he says it drops to normal quickly. Radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, water pump all checked out and working normally.
I'm wondering .... when the engine is turning slowly, if the the coolant pressure drops, which could be letting more exhaust leak into the coolant and raise the temp? Says when the temp goes high, he can smell antifreeze, probably blowing out the overflow.
rough all the time. Watch does with it is not my concern.
If he puts in neutral and revs the engine, he says it drops to normal quickly.
Radiator, fan clutch, thermostat, water pump all checked out and working normally.
pressure drops, which could be letting more exhaust leak into the coolant
and raise the temp? Says when the temp goes high, he can smell antifreeze,
probably blowing out the overflow.
Subaru had problems with leaky head gaskets in the late 90s. I was blessed with one of them. The officially official fix for my particular car was some sort of stop leak. I don't remember what they called it.
Put a bottle of K-Seal in yesterday and let it idle it for 20 minutes. When we started it up, I did notice white smoke coming out the exhaust. Then went for a drive and -- shut my mouth and call me breathless -- that Ranger ran smooth as silk. We drove around awhile (stopping for burgers and other vital necessities) but took it easy. Drove again last night and still smooth. Both times when we got back, we checked the overflow, the level had not changed, and the overflow hose was cold. This morning we took it for another drive (stopping at the donut place, etc...). Same - looked good.
After all the overpressurizing, the coolant is now more water than it should be. We'll drain out half of it and add antifreeze to bring it back up. Thinking that we should filter out the drainage and then dump the copper powder back in.
Also this one has the type of rad cap that you pull up on a lever and it released pressure. I never trusted those types, so we'll get a standard cap today and slap that on.
Put a bottle of K-Seal in yesterday and let it idle it for 20 minutes. When we started it up, I did notice white smoke coming out the exhaust. Then went for a drive and -- shut my mouth and call me breathless -- that Ranger ran smooth as silk. We drove around awhile (stopping for burgers and other vital necessities) but took it easy. Drove again last night and still smooth. Both times when we got back, we checked the overflow, the level had not changed, and the overflow hose was cold. This morning we took it for another drive (stopping at the donut place, etc...). Same - looked good.
After all the overpressurizing, the coolant is now more water than it should be. We'll drain out half of it and add antifreeze to bring it back up. Thinking that we should filter out the drainage and then dump the copper powder back in.
Also this one has the type of rad cap that you pull up on a lever and it released pressure. I never trusted those types, so we'll get a standard cap today and slap that on.
No. The leak is (at least for now) sealed. IF you decide to use dye, you want the stuff that foes in the coolant since it is the cooling system you are conceerned with You use the stuff for the oil when you are looking for an ail leak, or in the fuel if looking for a fuel leak. They make dye for use in refrigerant too, for checking A/C leaks
minutes. When we started it up, I did notice white smoke coming out the exhaust. Then went for a drive and -- shut my mouth and call me breathless -- that Ranger ran smooth as silk. We drove around awhile (stopping for burgers and other vital
smooth. Both times when we got back, we checked the overflow, the level had not changed, and the overflow hose was cold. This morning we took it for another drive (stopping at the donut place, etc...). Same - looked good.
should be. We'll drain out half of it and add antifreeze to bring it back up. Thinking that we should filter out the drainage and then dump the copper powder back in.
it released pressure. I never trusted those types, so we'll get a standard cap today and slap that on.
parts store today and they have 2 types of leak detection dye. One was to be poured into the oil or fuel, the other goes in the coolant. In this situation, I'm only interested in the engine leaks. Part folks couldn't tell me anything and the answer man at the garage is gone home. On day 2, the coolant level is staying full, engine temp gauge staying in the lower 1/3 of the range and still nothing overflowing to the reservoir. Would you suggest using either of these to check for leaks at this point?
Thanks, you just saved me $7.95 plus tax. After I wrote that I took another drive and noticed it is still missing slightly. Thinking about putting another bottle of stop leak in tomorrow. Or better to wait a few days first?
Don't waste your money. If one didn't do it, 5 won't either. Get the truck to a mechanic and have it fixed. - BEFORE it is damaged so badly it is junk.
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