I purchased a 1986 ford tempo that had only 36,000 miles on it at purchase.
About a month after purchasing the car the automatic transmission started taking
longer and longer to shift out of first gear. At this point it takes about 15
mins of driving to get it to shift at all and then a bit longer to complete its
cycle through gears and again a bit longer before it is shifting consistently.
It does not slip and the engine runs great I'm just not sure why it would do
this. I've tried changing the fluid and filter and I've put in some lucas oil.
Any simple solutions or does it need a rebuild?
At this point you have nothing to lose by trying more chemical cures,
such as the various seal conditioners and stop leaks that are sold.
You can also add a couple cans of STP to thicken the ATF. I put in a
couple cans of the seal conditioner and that helped my S-10 for a
while, then it started having delayed shifts more and more so I put in
2 or maybe 3 cans of the STP to thicken the ATF. That also helped. I
would estimate that I got an extra two years out of the transmission
by doing that. The STP won't hurt anything, it just makes the ATF a
bit more viscous so it doesn't leak past the worn internal seals as
easily. The higher viscosity does create slightly more internal power
loss in the tranny but not enough to matter for normal people.
Do not use additives, this is do to a partially clogged trans oil filter, t
hick additives will make it worse, (when the oil warms up it get thinner an
d gets threw the partially clogged filter easier do to getting thinner at h
otter temps, you need to have the trasmission fuel and filter changed to re
pair the problem , if after that if it comes back the problem (the engine w
as probally overheated, resulting in band damage form the tranmission coole
r), I'm a registered journeymen mechanic and know the things, email me dire
ct at email@example.com for any further help, i'll see if I can save you a
bunch of money....
On Saturday, March 9, 2013 10:18:01 AM UTC-8, Shannon wrote:
for any further help, i'll see if I can save
you a bunch of money....
On Saturday, March 9, 2013 10:18:01 AM UTC-8, Shannon wrote:
To add to the discussion: Many shops can now power flush your tranny which
might resolve any fluid problems being discussed here. IMHO if you keep
changing out fluids without doing this you may not get to the root of the
problem. FYI, I'm not a mechanic but I believe Scott is on the right track.
A so called "power flush" will not solve a plugged filter, if that is
the problem. Check the condition of the fluid. Not hard to tell if it
is thick just on your fingers. Smell it - stinks? possibly burned.
Colour? Red OK, brown or black - burned.
If the fluid doesn't stink and is a nice pink coulour, with a good
slippery feel, it is extremely unlikey to be a fluid problem.
I too am an automotive technician - licenced for over 40 years - and
the RIGHT additive can often do the job very effectively - for a very
small fraction of the cost of "shotgunning" the problem with a full
Just another possibility - is the fluid level just a WEE bit low???
On a 1989/90 Aeostar the dipstick was marked aboit 1/4 inch low -
worked fine in warm weather but was dicey when cold - worked fine when
It really sounds to me like one of the valves in the valve body is
sticky - and the friction modifier additive addresses this quite
effectively. If it doesn't work, it won't hurt anything and you can
still rebuild the tranny.
I don't think any cars were ONLY controlled by the vac mod. Usually
there is a throttle valve that senses the position of the gas pedal,
and a Vac Modulator valve that senses how hard the engine is pulling.
Between the two of them working together PLUS the spinning speed
sensing gizmo on the output shaft that raises pressure the faster the
output shaft is going, all of that together determines when to shift.
Or something like that.
That's what I was trying to think of .. "governor"! Now that you
mention it, I do think some trans used a vac mod plus gov and others
used a TV plus gov and some used all three. So I think your original
thinking was right, you just didn't mention the gov.
If a trans had just a governor, it would always shift at a predermined
RPM. The TV-cable or vac.mod. gives the valve body a "sliding scale"
input to decide to shift sooner or later. Since the OP asked about late
shifting...until warm...and already changed the fluid...and the trans
does not slip. the first thing I would do is look at the vacuum
modulator, if it has one. If it's leaking internally it will have fluid
in the hose. (which usually leads to the hose swelling and falling off)
You're probably right. I had a 70-something Nova that also had the modulator
Late 60's, early 70's Fords had the kick-down rod also. One of my jobs at
the Wayne Assembly Plant (now known as Wayne Stamping & Assembly) was
putting transmissions on the engines and hooking the kick-down rod to the
transmission linkage. Good times . . . NOT!! It was good money for the time,
though (especially when we were working those 80-hour weeks).
Yep. Hence the name "kick-down" :-) I know that the C4 and C6 that went on
the Galaxies had both; the kick down was adjusted as it was connected to the
carb linkage, then tested at EOL (end of line). The modulator was vacuum
operated, and, IIRC, set the shifting point by the amount of vacuum created
by the engine RPMs. That was external. They also had an internal governor on
the output shaft. Been a LOOOONG time since I worked on anything that old
On Mon, 25 Sep 2017 05:34:18 -0700 (PDT), firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Go to your local ford dealer and buy a little bottle of "friction
modifier" for their limitted slip differential.
It has solved a LOT of sticky transmission valve problems - and for
$11.00 US, you REALLY cannot loose by trying it.
Warning - the stuff STINKS!!!!!!
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