'02 F350 4x4 rear brake question(s)

Headed home from work last night and made the last stop before turing on to my street and heard a gawd-awful grinding noise from the rear end. Pulled into the driveway and heard it again. Popped the rear wheels off and sure enough, rear pads are toast. Kind of confusing becasue when I rotated tires about 3 weeks ago, I had a good 3/16" of pad left on the rears. (Then again, the wife drove the truck for a weekend so who knows what the hell she did to it)

In any case, I got all the goodies to replace the brakes in the rear and as expected, one rotor is toast. I mic'd it and it appears as if I'll be able to get it turned without going below the 28mm min thickness.. However, try as I might, I can't get the [bleep]ing rotor off..

Called the dealer I bought the parts from and they told me the rotor should just slide off.. After struggling to try and get the thing off for an hour, I called another dealer who told me I had to pull the axles out but then said he thought that was only on the duallys..

Of course, now that I really need it, I can find my CD with the service info on it to look at an exploded drawing of the brakes..

Anyone got the "trick" to pulling rotors on this:

2002 F350 V10 4WD Crew Cab Long Bed 4.30 LSD E40D tranny White with graphite interior. :)

Thx

Reply to
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego
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"The OTHER Kevin in San Diego" wrote in message news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

One BFH. Smack it a few times and it should pop right off.

Reply to
John Smith

5 lb brass hammer didn't do a thing other than make my ears ring and knock a lot of rust scale all over the driveway.. Wish I could find that damned service CD....
Reply to
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego

Try a 10 lb hammer.

Reply to
Tyrone

Beat ya to it. 10 lb dead blow hammer didn't do jack either. I had to put it back together so I could get to school tonight. Gonna chew up these new pads in a heartbeat, but I'll pick up a new set and have another go at it this weekend.

Reply to
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego

Well, another 3 hours of banging and the &^*^*%&^ rotors still won't budge.. It appears as if these rears are similar to the front on my old Suburban. On that POS you had to remove the hub and press the wheel studs out to release the rotor.. Now I'm wondering if I should pull the "cover" off the rear hub and see if there's a nut or something inside that'll allow this assembly to come off..

Thankfully, the "sacrificial" pads don't seem to show any abnormal wear so I'm ok for another week or so, but I really want to pull the rotors and have 'em turned or replaced..

Anyone got an exploded view drawing of the F350 CC Long bed axle?? (I

*think* it's a Dana 60)
Reply to
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego

The rear axle is either a Dana 80 or a Ford 10.5". Both are full-floating axles.

According to my 02 SD FSM, the rear disc rotors on the Dana 80 are integral with the hub assembly, and require hub removal to remove. To do so you have to remove the tire/wheel assembly, remove the caliper anchor plate (both of which you probably already have done), remove the axleshaft by unbolting the axleshaft cover and pulling out the shaft, then you need to remove the hub nut with Special Tool #205-282, remove the outer wheel bearing, remove the hub/disc rotor assembly, then separate the hub from the disc. You'll need to install a new hub seal on re-assembly.

The rotors on the Ford 10.5 (single rear wheel) should just come right off once you're removed the caliper.

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

You nailed it. I ended up having to pull the friggin' axle to get the rotor off. What a pain it was just to get the shaft cover off.. The local Kragen had the hub nut removal tool in their "loaner" tool stash so I wasn't out any $$ for yet another "low use" tool in my tool box.

I think next time I'll just ship it off to the dealer and save myself the aggravation.

Thx!

Reply to
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego

Glad to be of help.

Reply to
Matt Macchiarolo

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