Brakes yet again.

One was a master cylinder failure (without warning) and the other was a hose between rear axle and chassis and none where off road related. Odds of the first are pretty rare but then odds are based on even rare events. I keep some cars a very long time and the master cyl failure was on a car before they even had dual braking systems so when there was a problem with them you were really in a bad spot if E-brake did not work.

----------------- TheSnoMan.com

I guess you rear down and inspect every master cylinder in every vehicle to inspect its bushings huh? While you can do some PM with brakes there is always something that can still go rwrong as rare as it might be.

The retard her is you because when thing do not go with your drift or take on thing you act like a spoiled child and throw a fit. Again brakes can fail for unforseen reasons but people of limited vision and wisdom such as your self cannot see this. You can reduce the chance of a failure to a very very low probabilty but you can NEVER reduce it to zero because things do happen. I have seen new and rebuilt wheel cyclinders and master cylinders fail because of defective seals that were properly installed. I see you are tring out for your troll badge too.

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----------------- TheSnoMan.com

The E-brake became the P-brake when the MC attained the capacity to provide dual braking.

I'd accept the notion that the P-brake can provide E-brake funcionality, but only once. The car is moving, you realize it isn't going to stop by normal means -- using the brake pedal -- so the P-brake can be employed to bring the car to a halt. Once the car is no longer moving, the best strategy is to walk away immediately, do not rely on the P-brake to drive the car more than about 20 feet to the side of the road, if it isn't already there.

I object strongly to the suggestion you gave earlier that the OP could drive a crippled truck across town to his mother's house to affect repairs, relying on the P-brake to control the vehicle movements. That was a very bad suggestion.

Snow, The OP told us in no uncertain terms that his braking system is on the fritz. YOU told him to rely on the PARKING BRAKE to make the trip across town to affect repairs at his mom's house.

That was plain and simple, stupid advice. Making you the moron here.

I'm all over the unforseen circumstance thing. But, we can easily foresee the circumstances here getting out of control, with the worst case scenario being the loss of a life. In a good case scenario, the loss of life could be yours, I suppose ...

Please post a pic of your truck, so I can get off the road if I see you comming. You say the axles were just replaced and the rear brakes done? What did the mechanic have to say about the rest of the brake system? You really should have the brakes done by someone with experience. Brake pedal hard? Not an automatic booster problem, could be oil from leaking axle seal had saturated the rear shoes. To test booster; with engine off, apply brake pedal 4 or 5 times then release pedal. Now apply pedal, if needed (pedal goes to floor), pump pedal till some resistance (braking force) is felt and continue to hold pedal down. With pedal still held down, start the engine. If booster is working, the pedal will drop some. Loose front wheel bearings will cause low pedal, to test, raise wheel off ground so it is free to spin, grab wheel at top and bottom and see if you can rock it sideways. A c-hair of play is fine, more than that may require an adjustment. Another source of low pedal is rear shoes not adjusted correctly. It may be that the passenger side brake got hot if it was the only brake working.

damn man, you are a f*ing moron! you tried your bad advice and s*1t throwing at FTE and you got the smack down. are you still trying to give bad advice? go screw a box of thumbtacks!

-cutts-

no you dont, its very easy. fill the MC with fluid then somehow attach a brake line to both ports on the MC. make sure they are submerged in more brake fluid. with the MC in a vice push the piston in and out several times till you cant see any more air escape. and most importantly dont let the fluid drain back out! doubtful it will with a new seal but just be careful!

-cutts-

The kit costs 5 bucks, and includes hoses and nipples so there is no "somehow" as part of the discussion. Then, once the bubbles stop, leave the hose(s) and nipples attached while mounting the MC. Finally, remove one nipple and attache the brake pipe, then remove the other nipple sna attach the other brake pipe. Then bleed the system as you normally would, be sure that the air bubbles are worked through the system and you do not drain the reservior while you are working.

when the master is mounted in the vise make sure the bore is level, or you'll never get all the air out. I am going to suggest a step that makes things a lot easier. when you think you have all the air out of the master cylinder, rap the bottom of the cylinder with a screw driver handle, or the handle of a small like tack hammer small hammer,and watch for air coming out of the compensating ports with in the master. Then pump the cylinder again a few times and repeat untill no air when rapping or pumping. This is also a good method on large bore caliper and multi-piston calipers. it knocks air bells or bubbles what ever you want to call them loose from surfaces.

Off course if you can find the correct flare nut plugs and insert them in the ports instead of hoses, you just pump till you cant move the piston anymore, and it is totally bled, there wont be any air as this method forces it all out through the compensating ports. Fluid is a solid and cant be compressed which is why the piston wont move when the air is all out.

Whitelightning