Why do my brakes pulse again?

I have a 1997 Jeep Cherokee Laredo 4x4 with 36,000 miles on it. I do mostly "around home" driving (not really city or highway driving).

My question is why my brakes 'pulse' once again. When braking, it feels like there are high and low spots on the discs. I had them ground once which fixed the problem but it's back yet again. I'm very easy on the brakes. Someone said they may warp when hot and hitting a puddle but that doesn't sound reasonable.

Any ideas as to why this keeps happening would be great. Thanks.

Reply to
Ted S.
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Several things can cause rotor warping or nonuniform thickness:

  1. Overheating from severe use (long hills, towing, etc.)
  2. Marginally designed rotors (most vehicles today unfortunately)
  3. Overtorqued lug nuts
  4. Rust from lack of use
  5. Probably several more that I'm not aware of!

I think overtorqued lug nuts are one of the most preventable causes, at least next to avoiding severe use. Rotors are more likely to warp a second time after being turned. There is now less metal to absorb heat and less metal to resist the stresses induced by the heat. I think on most new cars and many trucks, it is a waste of time to turn the rotors. Better to just replace them, and the cost delta isn't all that great anyway.

Matt

Reply to
Matthew S. Whiting

Prior to any of the events, had anyone rotated or removed and replaced any tires? This can cause the rotors to warp. Once that happens, just replace them with an aftermarket set of your choice. Turning them takes away metal which make them more susceptible to warping in the future.

Reply to
Lon Stowell

Yep, #3 is the one I'd bet on. Usually by over zealous use of the air wrench by the place that rotates your tires.

PC

Reply to
Paul Cordes

What does rotating tires have to do with warping rotors?

I think it's over tightened lugs.

Reply to
Desert YJ

Having warped disk rotors ground, or "turned" is a good short-term fix. The problem is, however, that the more they are turned, the thinner they become. The thinner they become, the more susceptible they become to warpage. So it is a vicious circle kind of thing.

You probably need to have the rotors replaced. But if they wore out at only

36K miles, something ain't right. Maybe they can be replaced under warranty.

-Cyberbilly

Reply to
Cyberbilly

there are some good points that everyone has made so far. but the best point that I can make is... "on Car" machining of the rotors is the most effective and longer term fix for this condition, for this vehicle. Furthermore, check with you local Jeep dealership, because there were certain models with this condition that they had recalled, which was replacment rotors,caliper kits. Could be worth checking into. all they need is the last 9 digits of your VIN, current mileage and last name. If you cant find the information. Contact me and I will check for you.

Reply to
Galen

The simple answer is Chrysler rotors are JUNK. My '96 Stratus rotors were doing the same thing at 15,000 miles. Chrysler replaced them, but said that the warranty on "wear parts" was only 12,000 miles. I had the same problem with them at around 25,000 miles. I replaced those with the cheap NAPA ones in the green box and they were on the car until I traded it in at 186,000 miles. They were $16 each.

I bought a new Sebring convertible about three months ago. I have 9,000 miles on the car and the brakes are pulsating already. It has 4 wheel disks, so I'm bringing it in next week to see what they are going to do about it.

Reply to
Jason

Reply to
mic canic

"Do not use the left foot to brake" sounds like something Dave Barry would write! Is there an explanation there or is that indeed humor? - RM

Reply to
RickMerrill

We service thousands a cars of many different brands in our fleet service business.. We have discovered a common problem among the many different brands that have recurring FRONT rotor problems. The REAR brakes are very often the problem, not the front! When the rears are out of adjustment or not functioning properly for some reason, that causes the front brakes to do most of the work and overheat. Since we began adjusting rear brakes at every service interval, front rotor problems have been reduced dramatically. The problem is MOST prevalent on vehicles that are driven MODERATELY. Rear brakes that are out of adjustment WILL assist the front on HARD braking but often not help on light braking. Check the rear brakes WBMA. DO NOT use the left foot to brake, that too will overheat the rotors as well!

mike hunt

Reply to
MikeHunt2

I didn't know that the brakes could tell left feet from right feet! :-)

Matt

Reply to
Matthew S. Whiting

If you need to ask, you need to go back to driving school.

mike

RickMerrill wrote:

Reply to
MikeHunt2

Yes, your left foot should be pushing the clutch! The only problem braking with your left foot is that some people rest their left foot on the brake thus continuously dragging the brakes slightly. If you don't do that, there is nothing wrong with left foot braking for an automatic transmission car. Then again, if all cars were stick shift as they should be, then this wouldn't be a problem! :-)

Matt

Reply to
Matthew S. Whiting

Oh.

Reply to
Desert YJ

Many have already suggested improperly torqued lug nuts. My previous

98 Z28, a model which was infamous for warped rotors, developed the dreaded pulsing brake pedal/warped rotor syndrome. But one time after having the tires rotated it completely went away. And tire rotation prior to that was done by a meticulous high performance shop who always said they torque properly by hand, so I can only assume even they made a mistake.
Reply to
Markeau

It is because your left foot has the hay on it. :-)

Reply to
RickMerrill

why is it that the last nine posts could not even address the main question?- I'm wrong?, sounds like the other statement-"go back to school". Why is it that the only one that sounds wrong here is you?-try experience rather than the damn books sometimes. it teaches you much more.

Reply to
Galen

previous

Reply to
Markeau

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