Hey David M with issues, you have to have more than one speed source for ABS to work duh..... How many total sesors you have depends on whether it is 2wheel or 4 wheel ABS. You realy do not know how ABS works do you? You just like to try to start something. Knock yourself out.
That vintage F150 used only rear ABS sensed by a single sensor in the differential. It was a relatively crude system but, worked within it's technology limits. There were no wheel sensor of any kind. This system was used thru the "96 model year IIRC.
I guess Bloman never heard of RWAL. He should get far far away from the computer now and NEVER touch another vehicle again. This bubba may get someone killed one day.
No wheel sensors on this baby. The brakes have no electronics whatsoever at the wheel. I'm not sure how the anti-lock is supposed to work, and from the few panic stops I've had to make, it doesn't work very well. Plus it usually sets an error code that doesn't clear until the truck is shut off.
Had a friend at the last job who had a then new 98 Chevy C20 with ABS. A guy cut into their lane and he hit the brakes. The anti-lock worked on one side and not the other and threw them off the road into a tree. GM bought him a new truck and paid their hospital bills.
That is the problem. The latest mis info the idiot posted won't get a person injured. But some of his posting's have had the potential to do damage.. Of course some around here don't see it that way.
My GM 2000 K3500 has sensors in front wheels (had one go bad under warranty) and reads speedo for rear. Bad thing about that setup is sometimes coming down a hill and stopping if road is bumpy it will kick in ABS because rear tires are locking up as they bounce over bumps at a moderate normal braking rate and then brake pedal goes way down and braking force is lost. It has happened a few times and nearly caused a wreck once. GM offered no solution so I try to avoid that senerio now. That system is overreactive to that but performs well on ice and with front wheels.
You don't have to change anything in the tranny, with the exception of a very small gear that is used to calibrate the speedo -- and current technology may make that unnecessary. The speedo gear, if you need one, is easy to change. If you can change the ring and pinion, the speedo gear will not be a hurdle at all.
What you need to change is the Ring and Pinion gears (yes, there are two -- one each).
The gear ratio is determined by dividing the number of teeth on the ring gear by the number of teeth on the pinion gear. (41 / 10 = 4.10, for example).
I don't know the specifics of the gear sets that Ford uses, but the more common ratios used in the ranges you suggested are 3.07 and 3.73. The numbers aren't as important as the means of arriving at them.
Normally, one would change the gear set in response to getting oversized tires. Larger tires will alter the gear ratios and move the torque and horsepower curves to places that make torque and HP distant strangers. One applies a new gear set to bring the torque and HP curves back to where they are useful once again. With larger tires and the same gear set, you will notice that your truck has no power off the line, slows going up a grade on the freeway, and you frequently must downshift to the next lower gear -- some report that they downshift so often, they stopped shifting to 5th gear all together.
I run the NP435 with 4.10 gears and 32" tires in my Jeep. I never use 1st gear for anything except pulling stumps out. ;-) Seriously, I never use 1st on the street, and with 4.22:1 in my 2nd gear, starting out is as easy as any car I've ever owned. 1st is great for offroading, but in LO range, I stop rolling before I can finish the shift from 1st to 2nd.
That said, the speed sensor on many Ford trucks is actually at the ring gear, so changing the R&P would have no effect on the speed sensor's signal. Changing tire size, however, would.
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