I have a 2001 F350 diesel and looking into the idea of leveling out the front end, back is about 2inches higher than the front. I have seen some leveling kits and wanted to get advice about what kit to use and the pros and cons of doing this. Living in a place that this winter having the front end up will give me more clearance over snow. The other question is about tires, do they make a E rated tire in 285
75R15? I have been asking and hard to find that tire, any suggestions? thanks Chris
I have a 2001 F350 diesel and looking into the idea of leveling out the front end, back is about 2inches higher than the front. I have seen some leveling kits and wanted to get advice about what kit to use and the pros and cons of doing this. Living in a place that this winter having the front end up will give me more clearance over snow. The other question is about tires, do they make a E rated tire in 285
75R15? I have been asking and hard to find that tire, any suggestions? thanks Chris
Chris: you sure about those fifteen inch wheels? You should have 16 inch wheels on that pickup. If you don't, I've got four, with E-rated Michelin M+S tires, for sale, in CA.
there are a lot of 4X4-ers. Mine is 4X2,so I don't pay much attention to the 4X4 threads,but I have seen some approach 'leveling' bylowering the rear, not raising the front.
I did something really weird, not the only occurance. :/
I put 322 pounds of lead and hardware in my rear bumper.
That took 120 pounds of weight -off the front tires/suspension and -added 442 pounds of weight to the rear tires/suspension.
I did it for dirt road and jeep trail use and barily effects my load capacity since I hardly ever carry anything in it anymore.
The effects of the added weight are amazingly beneficial in several areas and many weren't expected. My favorite is the much improved handling on high speed curves. I'll post a complete list sometime if anyone wants it.
The hardware consists of 5/8" black "shaker screen bolts" (grade 5 carriage bolts) and 3/4" iron pipe, also 5/8" and 3/4" grade 8 washers and 5/8" flanged lock nuts.
The carefully cut pipe and off-the-shelf washers were held in place, inside the molds before the lead was poured around them, they are part of the wights now. I thought about putting handles on them too but decided against it.
I've been wanting to do that for over 15 years and finally got around to it... man do I like the results! :)
Alvin in AZ (I'm weird as anything)
ps- No, I don't have lights and running boards or anything like that junk on my pickup... it's as plain looking as it can be with the original Wimbledon white paint and no trim or even radio antenna
I guess I could take some pictures but what I have that's more intersting to me tho is the math... ;)
I call it the "effect ratio" (got a better name?)
133" wheel base, 2" thick plate of lead the center of which is
48+1/4" from the rear axle. So, 2.69 pounds of lead there takes 1 pound off the from axle and adds 3.69 pounds of effective weight to the rear axle. (I use a slide rule for proportions;) Two 95 pound hunks 2" thick takes 72 pounds off the front.
Two 4" thick hunks at 66 pounds each with an "effect ratio" of
2.74 to 1 takes 48 pounds off the front.
The coolest part of all this is how the pickup was designed to have a load on it in the first place, so this works with the design, not against it. All I know for sure is, I really like it! :)
Before I would try to keep my rear (main) gas tank full all the time to aid in ride and handling. Didn't work so good. :/
Yep, the extra weight is up high.
Like a body lift, as opposed to a suspension change I hope. :)
With relativly new 235/85-16's there is a 1+1/4" space between the top center of tire and the front fender, when veiwed from the side. The back is 3".
I used to live in Parkersburg, the guys in Parkersburg at the Monro Muffler can do that lift for you, and they are absolutely the best. Email me and I'll give you more details if you're interested.
Pardon the question fellas, but why would you want to level it anyway? I bought a 3/4 ton pickup because I need to haul and tow, if you plan on hauling or towing anything than this leveling deal is a bad idea. Your truck will look beautiful unloaded, no doubt...but put just a little bit of weight in it and it hunkers down below level in the rear which is a VERY embarrassing position for any self respecting pickup. I guess my question is this, if you plan on hauling why would you want your pickup level before loading? Also, if you don't plan on hauling why did you buy a pickup in the first place???
Mine doesn't. I haul a small bobcat on a "tag trailer" about 13 thousand lbs, and a larger loader or tractor with a fifth wheel trailer around 21 thousand, the loads are pretty high, but the truck doesn't squat below level.
I appreciate your explanation. It makes sense that you would have to add the airbags or something to maintain level with a load. I drive a 2000 F-250 4x4 7.3PSD super cab. Mine sits low in the front stock as you are familiar. When I tow a '93 Wilderness 25' TT it takes the truck down to level in the rear before I jack up the anti-sway bars, then it goes back to the stock high in the rear appearance. When I haul, it does drop a bit in the back depending upon the load. When there is suspension concerned, this has to happen. It is impossible for the truck to sit level, then take on a load and not drop below level unless there is some supplemental support like air bags, anti-sway bars, or NO suspension.
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