oil pressure gauge

I don't understand your confusion. From the link you gave:

"Remove the switch and install an oil pressure sender (sender from a 1980 F150 with 400 cu. in. engine is correct)"

Partsamerica.com says the correct pressure sender for a 1980 F150 with the

400 cubic inch engine is a GP Sorenson OPS71, if you have an oil pressure gauge rather than a oil pressure light.

>

Does that statement apply to my 300 cid -GAS- engine? (this is an honest question, I don't know the answer)

The sentence before the one you quoted says "Locate the turbo", but my engine does not have a turbo. (the site is designed for diesel trucks) I also found a page that gives the same directions with particulars for a '95 Mustang. As the saying goes, "the devil is in the details".

I'll ask the guy for that part when I go back and see if it will fit. I'll also try and better explain what I'm trying to do.

Thanks,

-D

>>

If you look up the 1980 F150 with the 4.9l (300 cid) gas engine, you will see that the same gauge sender is listed as the sensor for the 400 cid V8.

You were the one that provided the link, I was just pointing out that if you choose to follow the directions for swapping sensors per that page, there is no ambiguity. Since the 1980 4.9l six uses the same sensor as the 1980 400 cid V8, my guess would be that your 1993 4.9l six will also have the same sensor thread. It's easy enough to check, just compare the threads on the recommended replacement part for your truck with the threads on the GP Sorenson OPS71.

>>>

So I see. (that's what I decided to look up while getting a different sender from the shop)

The only ambiguity is that the directions aren't exactly for my engine. That page is closest I found since it at least refers to trucks (as opposed to mustangs :-)).

Now that I know that ...

The threads look alike. The OPS71 has a bigger main section, and the threaded section appears shorter (but that could just be an optical illusion). I feel better about this part because the P/N is the same as in the directions -and- it is listed as the right part for a 300 CID engine. I'll find out either late tonight or on Saturday when I install it. When I do I'll post the results.

Thank you for your suggestions and support!

-D

On Wed, 21 Apr 2004 17:25:02 GMT, Derrick 'dman' Hudson wrote:

||On 21 Apr 2004 14:36:37 GMT, Mark Olson wrote: ||> Derrick 'dman' Hudson wrote: ||>> On Tue, 20 Apr 2004 22:13:59 -0500, Mark Olson wrote: ||>>> Derrick 'dman' Hudson wrote: ||>>>> I'm trying to fix the oil pressure gauge, as described at ||>>>>

||>>>> ||>>>> The task itself is easy enough, but I don't know what sender unit to ||>>>> get. I have a 1993 F-150 with the 4.9L six gas engine. I don't think ||>>>> the counter guy at the parts store understood what I was asking for ||>>>> because the part he sold me (GP Sorensen OPS127) is no different than ||>>>> the stock sender. I'm taking that one back in the morning, but I ||>>>> welcome any information or pointers that would direct me to the ||>>>> correct part. ||>>> ||>>> I don't understand your confusion. From the link you gave: ||>>> ||>>> "Remove the switch and install an oil pressure sender (sender from a 1980 ||>>> F150 with 400 cu. in. engine is correct)" ||>> ||>> Does that statement apply to my 300 cid -GAS- engine? ||>> (this is an honest question, I don't know the answer) ||> ||> If you look up the 1980 F150 with the 4.9l (300 cid) gas engine, you will ||> see that the same gauge sender is listed as the sensor for the 400 cid V8. || ||So I see. (that's what I decided to look up while getting a different ||sender from the shop) || ||>> The sentence before the one you quoted says "Locate the turbo", but my ||>> engine does not have a turbo. (the site is designed for diesel ||>> trucks) I also found a page that gives the same directions with ||>> particulars for a '95 Mustang. As the saying goes, "the devil is in ||>> the details". ||> ||> You were the one that provided the link, I was just pointing out that if ||> you choose to follow the directions for swapping sensors per that page, ||> there is no ambiguity. || ||The only ambiguity is that the directions aren't exactly for my ||engine. That page is closest I found since it at least refers to ||trucks (as opposed to mustangs :-)). || ||> Since the 1980 4.9l six uses the same sensor as ||> the 1980 400 cid V8, my guess would be that your 1993 4.9l six will also ||> have the same sensor thread. || ||Now that I know that ... || ||> It's easy enough to check, just compare the threads on the ||> recommended replacement part for your truck with the threads on the ||> GP Sorenson OPS71. || ||The threads look alike. The OPS71 has a bigger main section, and the ||threaded section appears shorter (but that could just be an optical ||illusion). I feel better about this part because the P/N is the same ||as in the directions -and- it is listed as the right part for a 300 ||CID engine. I'll find out either late tonight or on Saturday when I ||install it. When I do I'll post the results.

If you are replacing the OE switch sender with the larger "can" type gauge sender, you may not have enough clearance to install it in the same hole. Earlier Fords used an extension tube, about 5 inches long. It screwed into the engine, then you screwed the sender into that. Brings it out past the PS pump. Should be able to find those extensions in a wrecking hard. They are about a

2/4" hex-shape, 1/4-NPT straigh male threads. The other end has an angeled bevel to point the sender in just the right direction for clearance (sender screws in at an angle) Rex in Fort Worth

||>>>>

Yes, that's exactly what I did.

It fit quite nicely, actually. On my 300 (I6) the power steering pump isn't anywhere's near the oil pressure sender. The only things "near" the sender on this engine is the lip where the head meets the block and the oil level dipstick.

The only thing I forgot was the teflon tape to make it seal better without overtorqueing. I'll remedy that on Saturday. I also need to scrounge up a bit of wire to short out the resistor on the dash (then the needle will move up where it belongs :-)). Other than that it went well. The OPS71 even has a built-in 15mm hex nut which made putting it on even easier than the OE model.

-D

||The only thing I forgot was the teflon tape to make it seal better ||without overtorqueing.

If it isn't leaking, I'd leave it alone. I don't think tapered pipe threads are supposed to have teflon tape. Rex in Fort Worth

ah....tapered pipe threads do need some sort of lubrication, this is what the teflon tape is for...lubrication and so that when you start tightening against the taper in the threads you don' t gall and sieze and ultimately break sumptin....and oh yes you've got to use some common sense too....these joints don't have to be "monster' tight...just "good n" tight....

never used it, never had a leak with reasonable torque

too....these

It isn't only lubrication; it also seals the helix formed by the space between threads. If the threads are machined perfectly, and you tighten them up just right, there wouldn't be any space at all, in theory. In real life, there is a leak path there, although it may be too tiny for oil to go through at 40 psi. Hydrogen at 1000 psi will leak, if not initially after a few heatup/cooldown cycles. The more worn threads become, the more they'll leak. It's not usually a problem with oil senders, as the threads never get damaged in the first place, and oil doesn't have ridiculously low surface tension.

how would the threads on an oil sender 'get worn' ????

it;s not like you take it off and put it on daily