I have a 1996 Beretta and while driving it, it lost power (stall) and cut
off. The only thing it does now when I try to turn it on is just a
clicking noise. Before it cut off there was no noise or anything, it just
shut off. Now it won't start at all. It's full of gas, the oil is good,
the battery is new but still it won't start. Do any one might know why
this is happening and won't start. Thanks
The headlights comes on and the instrumental panel lights comes on.I
haven't checked the radio as of yet. Is there any chance of the engine
locking up? That's what I were told. Is there any way of checking to see
if the engine is locked up?
Of course there is....
If it were mine, I would take the spark plugs out of it, and that should
compression so that you can turn it over by hand, or even with the starter.
If you have a gasket failure, or certain cracks, you can fill a cylinder
with water ( or in
some cases other liquids) and it will lock up tighter than 'Dick's hat
band'. Will absolutely
not turn using the starter. Taking out the plugs will allow it to turn.
If you take out the plugs and still can't budge the engine, you have
something else internally
causing the freezeup.
Abs. true, Ed...however, there are some vehicles where the alternator
supplies power through the battery...if the alternator packs it in...the
battery will keep the car going for about 30 mins more (depending on state
of charge when the alternator stops feeding it) until it discharges to the
point that it can't fire the ignition. Trying to re-start at this point
will result in a 'click' and no turning-over of the engine as the battery
hasn't sufficient power left to activate the starter...this sounds somewhat
like the symptoms Mr. Toyota described.
We were just checking to see if the Beretta's battery was, in fact,
discharged...next step would be to get the alternator checked. Lack of
activity in the starter is what lead us to believe the problem might be an
Happened to me once...with a Datsun.
That is what I was going to suggest next. If the battery checks out fine,
then check the alternator. I can't count the times I have had a dead car
with a good battery, but a bad alternator. Happened to me once driving home
from work. Alternator died on me, battery kept the car running for a little
while, until that died. A nice guy in a tow truck took it from there.
How I read it is that if the electrode cracked, or something like that, it
would be pretty instant death.
Rare, maybe, but it happens.
When I have had an alternator fail and the battery go down, I would usually
start noticing some strange
behavior before the car actually gave up the ghost.
I figure the battery and alternator are the easiest to check out, and they
were always the problem with my cars. And paying a shop $80 (which is the
rate for 'non-start' checks around here) and finding out it was just a
battery isn't fun. :)
The headlights seems to be good. The instrumental panel lights comes on. I
haven't checked the radio to see how it works. I was told that the engine
is locked up! Is there any way of checking the engine to tell if it's
locked up? Please continue to help. Thanks.
I suppose whomever told you that meant that the engine is seized...this
should not be possible if the oil level is correct as you said earlier. I
once encountered a Plymouth minivan that had it's engine "lock up"...not
because the oil ran out and the engine seized, but because a conrod cap
popped off and the crankshaft got jammed on the loose conrod. If that kind
of catastrophic failure had stopped your engine, it would have been very
noticeable...the engine would not simply have stalled, but STOPPED suddenly,
accompanied by a loud bang and possibly even bits of the engine and/or
drivetrain falling to the roadway. As for checking if the engine is "locked
up"...well, if you have a manual tranny, you can put it in reverse, roll the
car backward a foot or two, and have someone look and see if the engine
pulley turns. If it's an automatic...well, you're going to have to try to
turn the engine over the hard way...you'll need a breaker bar and a socket
big enough to turn the bolt in the middle of the engine pulley. If it
turns, your engine is not seized or locked up or whatever. If it doesn't,
If your electrics are OK, then it's time to look at the starter. The
starter isn't turning over the engine. Have the starter checked out (whack
it gently with a baseball bat or soft mallet first to make certain it's not
just a "flat spot" on the starter that's preventing it from doing it's job).
Once the starter is ok, it's time to look at why the engine won't run...if
it still doesn't. Believe it or not, at this stage the engine not starting,
and the engine not running are actually separate issues. First get it to
turn over...then see if you can get it running. Hope this helps.
Update on my checks. I had the battery recharged (it's good), I removed the
starter and had it checked out (it checked out good) the shop said it has
no way of checking the cylinor (on the starter). I have not taken the
alternator off to have it check yet. After all these checks when I turn
the key, I still only get a click noise (one click). Is there a fuse or
something I need to check? Please continue with your input.
If a fusible link at the battery were gone then *nothing* would work. I'm
not familiar enough with the Beretta electrical system to help you here. I
don't know if either the starter or the ignition is fused, but it is
possible that at least one of them is. Likely location is inside the engine
compartment on the fender wall near the battery. Possibly in some type of
fuse block with the individual circuits labeled.
I just thought of something. I remember before the car stalled I use to
hear noise when I would start the car coming from the "flywheel". I
sprayed some WD 40 on the flywheel a few times I think the noise went
away. But I think the noise would come back when I start the car. Could
that have some thing to do with it? How can I check if the flywheel is
damage or worn? Maybe some WD 40 got into the solinor (on the starter).
I'm just guessing.
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