coolant flush

If I take the heater hose off I get some flow, but its up to temp one hose is hot one is a little warm. I changed the thermostat

I did flush it the best I could with a garden hose. I replaced the cap it was filled with a rusty gum. The reservoir is a reddish rust color. Inside the radiator the spring looking thing that I think is part of the transmission cooler was covered with this same rusty looking crap. My question is will the cleaner do as good a job as the $70 flush from a shop?

The flush is worth a try in this case. Although it sounds like you have a coolant leak somewhere. Maybe the intake? The coolant gets rusty, slimmy, like your saying when there is a air leak. So the flush might help for a while but intil the leak is found and fixed you might run into this again in 6 months.

The rusty looking crap might very well be stop leak.

Better parts stores will have Permatex radiator flush available, comes in a quart bottle. It's acid so use appropriate caution.

I've had 100% success doing this on S and T trucks with blocked heater cores, and it beats the hell out of pulling the dash and changing the heater core.

Naturally, if you're going to do this, you'll want to make absolutely certain that the intake manifold gaskets haven't failed (i.e., has it had a history of coolant loss?)

I have had to add a small amount of coolant now and then but really don't know how much. If it needs a new heater core, and A/C is also not working. My thinking is try the flush if still no heat its time to replace the car.

what happens when you shove the hose up your ass?

sorry group this sick person is stalking me on line. He has followed me to groups I visit.

BTDT. If the engine temps are OK and you don't see any junk in the rad when you remove the cap, just flush the core with a garden hose in both directions.

Your momma comes out with the rest of the s*it, Mockingbird. Plonk!

I've got some pillow biter that follows me too.

I think I will take it to a shop and flush it. If I was able to work I would of replaced it with something new a couple years ago.

Make sure they pay special attention to the core. A regular coolant flush might not get it. FWIW YMMV

Reading paraphenalia with my new heater core replacement mentions voltage in the coolant itself causing electrolysis. Little as .1+ volts is all that needed. The worst of it will be where the ground is located in the cooling system. IE radiator or heater core.

It seems to me that the heater core would be about the least grounded component.

Dave

Where the heater core integrated pipes enter the firewall from underhood, there's a bracket (metal) that separates and contacts the two pipes and is bolted to the firewall. And the two bands that hold the heater core proper are metal, use two metal screws each and are bolted to the firewall inside the passenger compartment. 94 Chevy Blazer S-10, V-6 4.3L Vortec engine, w/AC.