I have a 1996 Chevrolet Lumina auto with (optional?) ABS. Lately the
system activates soon after I start to drive when I am making a slow
below 25 mph turn with the brakes applied. I then get the ABS warning
light that comes on steady until I turn the car off and restart it
with the whole thing happening again. Now I know ABS is a safer system
than not having it but I am wondering could I just pull the fuse for
it and forget about it. I live in Wisconsin and the ABS has been
terrible on snow with lack of controlled braking in turns and at slow
speed! This car has no manual switch in which to turn it off.
Does anyone know how many channels this system has and if I pull the
fuse for it would that effect the power assist of the normal brake
system. The ABS fuse does not show anything else on that circuit.
The car is old and I just do not want to spend the money on a fix.
I feel your pain my friend. Every part on those old Teves systems
has an obscene price tag on it. Last ABS repair I did on the '87 Olds
98 was the pump - even with trade discounts that pump cost $863 + tax
AND had to wait 3 weeks while G.M. got the part from Teves in Germany
(and on those if you lose the pump you not only lose power boost but
you have NO rear brakes as well).
In 1993 the master cylinder was priced at $1700.00 - Lord knows how
much it lists for these days (thankfully G.M. bought that one).
Thanks, Bill...Last time I checked, you could get a remanufactured master
for around a grand, but a new one was $1800.
The windshield on this car is also $1800, if you can find a new one. There
used ones still around.
I believe that GM dropped the Teves soon after my car, which might indicate
retrofit a later model system, if fan and feces ever become intimate.
Or, maybe just part this thing out and buy some cheap beater.
I beg to disagree. On the old Teves systems (used in GM "C", "H",
"E" and "K" bodys from 86~90) loss of the pump kills power assist to
both ends and drops rear brakes to about 5% of normal. On these
systems the pump also supplies power assist (there is no vacuum
You can disable it, but the real question is, "what is wrong?". Rather than
take what seems to be an easy way out, be sure it is a malfunctioning ABS
and not some other brake or suspension problem causing the ABS to kick in.
Left turn or right turn? Sounds like you have a faulty ABS sensor cable
or the connector on the frame rail is crudded up. Neither is hard to
repair. You need to have the ABS codes pulled and it will point you
toward which side is dropping out.
As to how many channels. 4. One for each wheel on the car. Most of the
trucks with ABS have 3 channel systems (2 front wheels and 1 rear sensor)
The big question is what does your insurance company have on your
policy? Disabling ABS could cost you in court if you ever hit someone
and have disabled it. 25-30 bucks for a sensor. Or, losing your house,
cars, and garnished wages for the rest of your life is the possible
option with pulling the fuse.
I haven't gotten under the car yet.
Were do the wires run that attach to the wheel sensors? Not too long
ago I broke the drivers side rear-trailing arm and had both the right
and left then replaced. I don't remember where the brake lines were
before the repair but now they have them attached to each arm with
wire ties. Would the wire be running alone with the hoses now attached
to each arm?
I just stuck my head under the car and the hoses are in protective
corrugated jackets are the wires to the sensor maybe also running
along with the hoses?
As far as dirty wheel sensors. Can I blow out the wheel sensor without
removing anything? Is there an online diagram where the sensors are in
relation to the hub?
The car is very rusty under it. That rust, age and a pothole is why I
broke a trailing arm. When the arm broke may it have pulled on the
wire enough to loosen it at the sensor and or break inside the
insulation and thus be shorted somewhere its run near the trailing
arm? I know it is hard to guess at your end but I am thinking the
broken trailing arm and its repair may have something to do with this.
I am correct in assuming that a 1996 Lumina auto (sedan) with
optional ABS is a four-channel system with its sensors at each wheel?
Normally the wires are run through a clip on the A arm and back to a
connection located just behind the splash shield above the suspension.
On the rear they run them along the trailing arm on some, to the upper
link on others. Depends on the model. Either way the wires coming out of
the hub are easy to find.
It depends on what they did. If they just worked on that area then I
would suspect that they may have damaged the wire itself.
The usual problem requires you to pull the wheel/tire, Then remove the
speed sensor from the hub and clean the area that it mounts to the hub.
What happens is, rust forms on the hub under the sensor and pushes it
away from the tone ring. The sensor sees a slightly different frequency
because of the distance change and the computer decides that it means
that tire is locking up. That triggers the ABS.
Is there an online diagram where the sensors are in
Easy to find, they are bolted into the hub assy. Just follow the wires
Sounds VERY likely that the suspension moved enough to damage the
wiring. They are only set up to deal with steering and suspension
travel. Much past that and you have trouble.
I would pull the codes, they will give you a real good pointer toward
the problem. I would suspect
Yep, 4 sensors. Live axle vehicles can get away with three because they
just assume that if one rear wheel is on a slick surface they both are,
Not really good in some instances off road but for the most part it
I pulled the fuse on my 98 Jimmy and drove most of last summer. I knew the
problem I had was the sensor on a wheel bearing hub. Never had a problem.
When fall came around and I had the money to fix the hub I changed it and
put the fuse back in for the winter. Living in MI I would not drive a winter
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