I thought I would post a few more things that might be better clues as
to what's going on:
1) Four times in the past month, I would go out to start the car, and
it would crank but not "catch" and start unless I stepped on the gas
pedal and opened the throttle. If I did start it this way, the RPM's
would jump all crazy...going from almost ZERO to 2000 RPMs. I could
cure the problem simply by shutting the engine OFF and re-starting it!
2) Via my AutoMeter Vacuum Gauge, I can see that sometimes at idle,
the vacuum is a solid 15" hg(in Drive), and other times, especially
when HOT, the gauge will fluctuate slightly between 13.5" hg and 15"
hg. I read online that this is usually a spark plug gap problem or
3) Once the engine is up to operating temperature, I can view my
Air/Fuel Gauge(LED based), and watch that as I am slowing down and
coming to a STOP, the O2 Sensor(NEW) will stick RICH, and sometimes
not move from the RICH for up to 1 minute while idling!
So, I think #1 is the most important. Especially if we can assume that
the fact that the engine is definately running RICH is RELATED to the
fact that sometimes the engine won't start unless the throttle is
opened. And anytime the RPMs are going *crazy* and the tach is jumping
all over the place and causing surging, simply shutting the engine OFF
and re-starting it somehow CURES the problem!??
Knowing this, could it possibly be a bad MAP Sensor? I know that the
MAP Sensor tells the ECM the outside barometric pressure, and if it
was telling the ECM that I was at a much higher altitude than I
actually am, I believe the engine would not start?
Given this information, is there anything else that can be added? I am
going back on Monday to get stuff diagnosed, but I would like to have
more info going in...