I have a 2001 GMC safari van and am about to replace the fuel filter. I
am not familiar with auto mechanics but I am quite handy (and short of
funds to have this done at a garage).
If I disconnect the battery and use some pliers to do the job will it
go ok or is this device constructed in such a complicated way that
parts will fall out when the nuts are loosened? I dont mind if some
gasoline sprays all over the place.
Look under the hood at the fuel rail. See if you see a spot that has a cap
on it like you see on a air valve to a tire. This is where you would
connect a manual fuel gauge to test for pressure. It is spring loaded like
the air valve on the tire. Turn off the vehicle, and press the spring on
this connection down. The fuel will squirt out until the pressure is down
to zero. You can buy a fuel pressure gauge that will screw into the
manifold that has a bleed line off the gauge. If you have access bleed the
pressure into a gas can. My mechanic always opens my gas cap. (not sure
why but he does). Uses the required tool to remove spring connection
fittings if your filter is equipped with them or loosen the flare nuts if
equipped to remove the filter from the line. Once new filter is in place,
close gas cap and remove any manifold you may have installed on the fuel
rail. Turn key over but do not start the vehicle. Do this three times to
ensure fuel has reach the injectors then try to start the vehicle. Check
On 9 Feb 2005 16:33:50 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Usually these things are just canisters in-line with the fuel line.
Inside is a filtering media. The only complication is usually the
special connectors that *might* be fitted to each end of the canister
to seal it with the pressurized fuel line. You "MIGHT" need a special
tool available at any auto parts store to take off this connector
without damaging it.
When you go to buy the replacement filter, ask for any *special tool*
that might be required to replace it with. I see them being sold all
the time, and they are quite inexpensive.
You will mind if it's under high pressure, and some cars have pressures over
100 psi at the fuel injector rail.
Start the van and pull the fuel pump fuse. The engine will die quickly and
then you can work on the filter. Whatever pressure is in the line then
won't be much.
That will work if you can get to the plug easily enough.
My reply was meant to remind that pulling the fuel pump fuse
technique does not always work -if- that fuse also supplies power
to the injectors and/or the PCM. i.e., killing everything at once
won't deplete the pressure in the system.
On my Merc Sable ( fancy Taurus ) it says to unplug fuel inertia
switch and run engine until it stalls. Later, after filter change,
plug back in, turn key on but don't try to start. Do this 3 or 4
times, and then try to start engine.
This is on a FORD. I don't know if OP's vehicle has a fuel inertia
switch. Would be nice if it did, but he can just unplug wires going
to fuel pump? Cable harness?
GM doesn't use that item thank god. The GM system has redundancy. If the
fuel pump relay dumps, it will still start once oil pressure comes up. If
you know where the inertia switch is on a "found on road dead", you can
smack that area on the outside of the car with the palm of your hand and
disable the car. Most people don't know about the bloody thing, so they end
up calling a wrecker for a tow to the shop. More than a few tow truck
operators don't know about it ether. If the inertia switch goes bad your
not going to get the vehicle started. and there have been more than a few
times I have had customers tell me they hit a bad pot hole or a bump and the
car just shut down. Great idea ford.
On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 02:03:25 GMT, "Whitelightning"
It is to keep gasoline from burning you alive in a crash. So I don't
think it is a -bad- idea as long as you know where it is, what it
does, and how to Reset it. On my car, BIG red switch to Reset it. In
trunk near rear wheel well. Can't imagine anybody not noticing this
monstrosity, especially with its neon-red dayglo color ;-)
Also, front crash sensors, one on each side of radiator. IOW, don't
bump into ANYTHING with this car, including a shopping cart, or you
might not get home except in a taxi.
Well way back in 1971 Chevy came out with a new car called the Vega. A
great piece of
automotive engineering that was unfortunately about 20 years a head of the
times. No steel sleeves
in the aluminum block, silicon injected into mold as aluminum begins to
solidify, silicon goes to surfaces.
Special hone process to smooth silicon in cylinders, chrome molly rings (one
of the first production
cars to use them). and a strict oil change recommendation. So you have
chrome moly rings riding on
thin layer of oil on a thin layer of silicone. If you loose oil pressure,
the rings scrap the silicone off
and score the cylinder walls. So GM tied the oil pressure sending unit to
the fuel pump circuit(Yup,
another first for american iron, in tank electric fuel pump). Nice side
affect, if car is in accident, and
fuel line busted, engine stalls, oil pressure goes away, fuel pump shuts
off. This system worked so well
on the accident side, that GM continued to use it on vehicles with electric
(I have a fond spot, make that a severe love affair with Vegas)
You and I as gear heads know about the inertia switch. Grandpa and Grandma
Smith haven't a clue,
and I fear often get taken to the cleaners over that inertia, as do many
other ford owners who like 70%
of car owners would be hard pressed to tell you where the oil dip stick is
on their vehicle.
On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 02:53:01 GMT, "Whitelightning"
Tell me this is Satire.
Every Vega I've ever seen was so shot-through with RUST it looked like
it came from a salvage yard. The body work on those Vegas left much
to be desired.
Today's engines are being sold as "maintenance free" to the public,
but you and I know _better_. In some ways, they are easier to work
on; less moving parts and gizmos, in some ways they are harder to work
on; computer modules with secret algorithms and special factory
programming. It all washes out in the end. You take care of your
car, IT will take care of you. Ignore your car, it will let you down,
sooner if not later. Some people have money to burn; I'm not one of
Vega was one of the cars that Chevy tried using recycled steel on, same as
ford did during the same years, only they used it on trucks, ever seen an
early 70's ford truck with an intact roof? Chrysler tried the stuff on
their luxury cars , remember how fast New Yorkers and Newports rusted?
But back then you could find Vegas for $300 with a bad motor. Pick up a
turbo 350 tranny and a small block 350 for another $300 and for under a
grand when you were all done have a very very fast car that could embarrass
the hell out of mustangs, cameros that cost much more, and they handled
pretty damn good as well, brakes were a bit lacking tho.. If you were
handy, you could set up a clutch set up that worked and run a 4 speed, and
then you could force the car through turns. Imagine the joy of a 2,200 lb
car with a 4 speed and a 300+ real ponies hp engine, at age 18, in Germany
where there were no speed limits on the autobahn. even more fun was out
running german cars on twisty mountain roads because you could just walk
away from them coming out of the turns going up the grades. But the best
was being told you could no longer compete against the corvettes by the club
board in the slolam races they set up in parking lots on different bases
once a month, because you were embarrassing the club every time you won.
Ahh the good ole days.
On Sat, 12 Feb 2005 04:19:20 GMT, "Whitelightning"
Whatever turns your tires, Whitelightning. Is OK with me. Just an
observation of mine, that the bodies of those things seemed to go bad
way too soon relative to the power train. I guess I notice things
like that since I live up in the rust belt. Body integrity is an
issue up here, more so probably than elsewhere. =Every= Vega I ever
saw looked like it was not only shot at, but hit.
Everything rusts up here. But some go faster than others, and those
Vegas were horrible. So were some Buicks I've owned in the past. Not
picking on that car in particular. I was even unlucky enough to own a
Pinto at one point in my life. Best not to remember that though.
I used to buy cars for anywhere between $20 and $300 and fix em up.
The money I put into fixing them up paid itself back many times over.
Then again, some where in such bad shape, I would have to pop-rivet
aluminum panels on them to keep the weather out and gophers from
building nests in the door panels.
Can't do that anymore though. These days there are speed limits on
the autobahn. Not to mention too much traffic to get up to speed.
The best thing about the good ole days was the price of gasoline. 25
cents / gallon. Can't think of much else though.
I was more fond of small journal forged steel crank 283's and 327's. There
is a 76 GT camback wagon in the garage with a 283 on an engine stand. It
will be my 10th V-8 Vega, I plan to keep this one till hell freezes over.
The Cosworth Vega has become a major collectors item. I always wanted one
of those. But not to beat the original 2.4ltr. Paterson magazines took
one, bored it and sleeved it, sent the cylinder head to Dugan industries in
LA for a rework, mounted a set of hooker headers and a Clifford research 4
bbl manifold with a Holly 550 CFM spread bore carb and got a respectable 270
hp out of it. Remember this was back in 1975. They then replaced the carb
and manifold with a twin Weber DOHC side draft set up, more lift on the cam,
and boosted the hp 305., all normally aspirated, no turbos, no blowers, and
no nitro oxide.
I always preferred the wagons. They looked better to me, and the chassis
was three times stiffer and they just launched better. The 76 in the garage
is the first one I have owned with the modified three link set up with track
arm going to the tranny tail shaft. I know how to make the old four link
set up launch without wheel hopping (the first one I built wheel hopped so
bad you could put 2ltr coke bottle in front of the wheels and I could jump
them, really rough on the spider gears) so this one is going to be a
learning experience. I need the front cowl, and bottom fairing for a 73 or
older, I hate the slope nose look of the later models, I don't care if they
are more aero, I want that mini camero look of the 71-73.
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.