How to replace the rear rotor for my Town and country

My T&C 2003 van makes noise when I brake. I replaced the 2 rotors in the front. I am sure the noise is from the rear. I need to replace
the rotor, or at least take it out, and find out what's going on inside it.
I take all the wheel, caliper, brake pads, but the rotor just does not come out. It moves a little bit, but does not come out. I even unhook the thing on the back of it (is it a parking brake or something), but it just does not come out.
I even use a pulling device that mount around the disk, pull around it, and push in the middle, but it just does not come out.
I wonder if I miss any nut/bolt or any steps?
I read about using the caliper whole to put a nut in it and "walk" the rotor out. Study this carefully, and it seems very risky thing to do. I am afraid the caliper mounter will bend, but the rotor would not come out.
I also bang the rotor real hard (hehe, that contribute to the rotor warp a bit), and it just doesn't move.
What should I do to get this out?
Thank you very much for any info or help.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

First, before doing ANYTHING more, have you followed ALL the steps in the FSM (Factory Service Manual) If you do NOT have a FSM then you are an absolute fool to be screwing around with brakes.
Are you sure this is the rotor moving, and not the entire wheel just moving in the bearing?

That will work but it really needs a lot of force, probably more than most of these kinds of flimsy pullers can generate. It's also extremely dangerous, as the rotor deflects more and more your building up a huge amount of energy, if anything slips (like the puller jaws) or snaps you could be hurt badly.

Where are you banging?
When you hammer a rotor to get it off you bang on the edge, with the force going sideways, not back to front. The idea is the sudden jar at right angles to the axle will make the rotor shift a tiny tiny tiny amount sideways, this will break the rust bond that is holding it on. And you don't need to hit it very hard, you just need to hit it with something massive. Unfortunately, this is hard on the bearings.
What a shop would probably do if the rotor does not come off with gentle hammering with a sledge, is heat it up quickly, to a dull red, with an acedelyine torch then hammer it off with a sledge. Propane isn't going to help here. The key is to get the rotor hot very quickly before the heat has a chance to work into the hub and expand that, or melt all the grease out of the bearings.
And keep in mind all this is general steps for a rotor that assume the rotor isn't bolted on to the wheel. That is why you need to review the FSM.
Ted
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thank you for the reply.
When you talk about FSM, do you mean those guide you can buy from the auto store, such as Advance Auto Parts? I checked, but they didn't have 2003. I'll check again today.
I am sure the rotor move a little bit, using my hand without much force, I can easily move it back and forth about 2/10th of an inch (not around) with relative to other stuffs. The wheel, 5 nuts, caliper, 2 pads are already taken off.
I also tried to see if I can take out the rotor on the other side, but it also stucks the same way. So, I wonder if there is any thing I missed.
Originally, there was metal noise, but not from the rotor (even when I don't brake). The tire on this side makes noise when I drive, and worn out quickly. That's why I start looking into this. I am afraid something is wrong with the bearing in there.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@drexel.edu writes:

No, the FSM is the *Factory* Service Manual. Get it from Chrysler.
--
Joseph J. Pfeiffer, Jr., Ph.D. Phone -- (505) 646-1605
Department of Computer Science FAX -- (505) 646-1002
  Click to see the full signature.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@drexel.edu wrote:

NO! An FSM is a FACTORY Service Manual. Buy one at a Chrysler dealer, or order online. Haynes/Chiltons/etc. that you buy at parts stores are garbage.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Steve wrote:

If you're attending Drexel University which was once an engineering school, there are some very inexpensive auto mechanics right near your campus who can give you some support. Just ask. Some are cheap. Some are not. So ask.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Also, one of the country's largest depositories of automotive texts and materials is within walking distance of Drexel. It's in the main branch of the Free Library, the science section, Logan Circle. I am not sure if it's as accessible now or up to date since Mayor Street has cut funds drastically. If you cannot find a used copy, the new copies can be quite expensive from $60 to $100 and on up.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thank you all for the advices. I'll try to get my hand on the FSM later. For now, I'll see if I can put some rust solvent, and see if it helps. Is it ok to use the rust solvent here?
I looked at the Haynes book for 2002, it seems very straight forward, so it probably just stucks.
On Drexel U. I graduated several years ago, and have since left Philadelphia. But thanks for the advice and keen eyes.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@drexel.edu wrote:

Haynes is based on taking apart one vehicle. That is good. The problem is that one vehicle represent maybe 10 years of all kinds of similar vehicles. If that one vehicle is exactly like yours, you're home free. If not, the diagrams and info will be almost correct, but not exactly, which can be terribly confusing to beginners.
Sometimes on the internet you can find a description of what you are trying to do. For example, I wanted to know about my front wheel bearing. I found on the internet a full description of a car three years from mine, but the same.
There is also a subscription services, www.alldata.com which has the factory manuals and all online for $25 a year. That would probably be your best and cheapest bet for solidinfo.
Also, I find that service managers in quiet suburbs will often give you lots of advice, also the parts guy. Since what you are doing is supposed to be pretty basic, unless the parts do not come apart, spend some time, if you can, asking these guys. Sometimes you luck out and they have good automotive experience.
About www.Alldata.com, it lists about all for your car: Subscriptions Include:     Factory Recall and Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) These can be quite handy for repairs that the dealer will provide for free if it's a recall. Or repairs you might need to do that were found out about AFTER the Shop Manual was published. They don't update the original shop manual - I think.
This information addresses safety, reliability, performance and comfort related problems with your car. Also provides fixes for common problems and updated factory repair procedures     Illustrated Diagnosis and Repair Procedures     OEM Part Numbers     Diagnostic Charts and Trouble Codes     Component Locations and Diagrams     Factory Maintenance Schedules     And much more! First subscription is $24.95 per year & additional This is going to be much cheaper an initial outlay. And will include materials not in the original Shop Manual. But if you have the money, get it all, a Shop Manual on paper and CD and the Alldata.com subscription which should give you the info from the source. I have seen prices up to $200 for some manuals. I don't know but DaimlerChrysler.com will sell to you directly as well as any dealer will order the manual for you and probably save you shipping. Ask for a small discount. Tell him you are going to be a big customer with the way you are going :)
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com wrote:

New manuals can be ordered from:
http://www.techauthority.daimlerchrysler.com . They offer manuals for 1995 and later models. eBay will usually be less expensive, if you can find the one you need.
-Kirk Matheson
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Tap on it with a hammer while you work it back and forth, as I mentioned before the direction of impact needs to be at right angles to the axle.
Ted
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thank you for the help, Ted. I'll definitely try that tonight.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Tapping on the thing, while using the pulling device (not putting too much pressure, just so I don't have to move back and forth), I was able to get it very far. I must say this is a wonderful suggestion. One side goes far enough that it shows a little gap in the middle of the rotor. I try to peek inside, but the stuck side is the one that I want to see. However, the other side goes almost out, but stuck there. The stuck is at around 2 o'clock position (this is driver rear wheel). I reason this could be the handbrake that causes this. When the rotor is pushed in, it can rotate around. When I move the rotor far out, the rotor stop rotating. There must be something stopping this.
I unhook the emergency brake wire, but it does not help to release the rotor. If I hook back the emergency brake and push the emergency brake down, the rotor would stop rotating.
This car also has ABS. I wonder if I take out the 4 nuts which hold everything (the bearing, the emergency brake, the base with 5 bolts sticking out, etc.) would help me take the thing out. The FSM probably be a good guide on this.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Right here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item 05727387
And no whining at how expensive they are, if you think this is expensive for a set of manuals, you are -very- misguided.
Ted
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thank you, Ted. I am waiting for the manuals to come through the mail. I was very surprised how good a deal that was. I feel really lucky to get your help.
Again, thanks, and you have a good weekend,
-vd
Ted Mittelstaedt wrote:

Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Your welcome!
Ted
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
I got the book in the mail today. However, I think it's not the right book. It's a set of diagnostic books which I think it helps to trouble shoot problem using a scanner. Does FSM show how to disassemble and assemble the van?
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
On Sat, 29 Oct 2005, snipped-for-privacy@drexel.edu wrote:

Yes. You got the wrong books.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
snipped-for-privacy@drexel.edu says...

No, not those. The ones he is referring to you need to buy directly from Chrysler. The ones that auto parts stores sell are at times barely adequate, and other times have missing information. ------------- Alex
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload
Thank you all for the help. I manage to get one rotor (the trouble side) out. The stuck problem was caused by rusted inner hat area of the rotor and the parking pad. Before I replace this, I wonder what kind of clean up with the parking brake I can do. Also, the other side rotor is not bad, I wonder how "bad" it is just to replace one side. I already order two rotors, but if I cannot take out the other one, I am thinking of just replacing one side.
After find out the FSM and other books just says that you yank the thing out by hand, I decides to take the whole thing out (include bearing, etc) and see what else I can do, by unplug the large 4 nuts that hold the whole thing to the car (the big bottom shaft). It stucks and didn't come off after the 4 nuts are off. So I use a hammer and hit on the caliper adapter (not to bend it). I think it should not cause problem with the bearing since this thing attaches to the bearing case and big shaft. Is this a right assumption? The whole thing does not come out. So, I push and pull the 2 sides of the rotor, and I notice rust falls off. I rotate and tried again couple times, and it moves out.
This pull/push thing does not work on the other rotor. However, I don't want to bang on the caliper adapter, or tabbing on the rotor (like Ted suggested) on this side, because it's good, and I don't want to ruin it.
Add pictures here
<% if( /^image/.test(type) ){ %>
<% } %>
<%-name%>
Add image file
Upload

Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.