Maybe if it's the sending unit that is not working?? Or maybe the tank
itself that needs replaced??
I'm not always in a hurry to do a job. If it works out, sometimes I'll start
draining the tank on one vehicle while I'm finishing up another job. It does
cut into my bullshit time but I make more money. <G>
Correction - it was a 15? gallon tank in less than 1/2 hour. 1983?
That is roughly 68 liters? Been a few years so I'm not 100% sure of
the tank size.
The transfer unit used a roller cell type external EFI pump rated for
something like 350HP or 150 liters per hour at 20 some PSI IIRC.
Emptying the tank through the line was about 30% faster than through
the access valve. Flipping a pair of valves on the unit and dropping
the hose into the filler neck refueled the car in something like 20
Trying to suck the fuel out the access port with the valve installed
I'm talking about doing it in the shop, where safety regulations
REQUIRE a fuel transfer pump/tank unit. I made the unit we used for
about 6 years while I was service manager - and it may still be in use
today. I left the dealership in question about 18 years ago
When i worked at the dodge dealer, the way i removed the intank fuel pumps
was not to drop the tank but raise the bed, the tank can be completly full
and never dropped....remove the 6 15mm. bolts...leave the two back ones in
but loosen them the ground strap and the three screws attaching the fuel
neck to the body comes off, lower the truck with a jack stand under the bed
, the bed goes up while the truck comes down, looks like a dump truck
dropping a load when it is up
Most of the LHS's pump are removed thru the trunk without disassembling the
tank, i think the newer ones have the drain on the tanks, but not sure. and
we were talking about Trucks, i was posting on that...
I replied to another part of the thread already but will repeat here that
the car my wife owns (2001 Impala) has an access door under the rear seat.
Pull the seat and then unbolt the access door/cover and you can then remove
Well, I suppose this means that you haven't heard about enough
of them then. Even with dropping fuel tanks, most of them are not
nearly as hard as you might think. You are comparing replacing
an electric fuel pump that is "outside" the fuel tank to replacing
one that is inside the fuel tank. I was thinking more along the lines
of the older mechanical fuel pumps that were attached to the engine.
These were far more common on domestic vehicles then inline
external electric fuel pumps.
Many late model vehicles also have access panels in the trunk that
make changing an electric fuel pump a 15 minute job. Most vehicles
that I work on (GM), you can have the fuel tank out in 10 minutes.
Definitely wrong. I changed the in tank fuel pump on my 86 Dodge GLH-T
three times. All I had to do was wait for the fuel level to drop low
enough before I pulled it. I jakced up the right rear of the car and
then pulled off the wheel. Then the fuel pump/sender assembly could be
easily pulled out. Smart design.
Perhaps if your degree was in electrical, rather than mechanical,
engineering you might. One reason is liquids can not burn. By
being inside the tank, there is no possibility of a combustible
mixture or fire. If for example the electric fuel pump were
outside the tank, in the line, there is a much greater
probability of a combustible mixture occurring in the event of a
fuel leak. OK?
Al Smith wrote:
I'm electrical - but sure not interested in taking sides
in this conversation.
I do have one question though that I'd like to ask if
I may? When I have a quarter tank of fuel left, what
exactly occupies the remaining space?
If I see where you're going with this, the inside of the fuel pump
(where all the electrical commutation/sparking takes place) is 100% full
of liquid fuel under all conditions. Missing only one ingredient for
fire or explosion: air/oxygen. Comforting thought, eh?
To answer your question: air (but all the arcing and sparking is inside
the pump with only liquid fuel).
(To reply by e-mail, replace the last letter of the alphabet in my
adddress with the letter 'x')
Sorry I started now. :)
How about at the final few minutes of running out of
How about turning on the ignition (running the pump
for a few secs) when the tank is "empty" ?
How about a flaw in the diptube?
I'm gonna respectfully suggest that were I given
a choice; I'd take a pump in the engine compartment
(the other side of the firewall being a nice side
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