How do I know when I need a capacitor? I have the 6-channel Infinity amp at
600 watts. It handles the 4-channels and the sub. Do I need a capacitor?- posted
18 years ago
How do I know when I need a capacitor? I have the 6-channel Infinity amp at
600 watts. It handles the 4-channels and the sub. Do I need a capacitor?I'd go with other power upgrades first before you waste your money on a capacitor. Start with the basics (better battery, bigger wires from alternator to battery, bigger grounding wires, bigger alternator, etc etc)
------------------------------------ Mike Mangione
Thanks, but the question is, do I need to do any of that or am I good as it is?
Are you having any issues? Sound cut-outs? Dimming headlights on bass notes?
If you aren't having any of the issues above, then you don't need to do anything at this point.
------------------------------------ Mike Mangione
I am asking this BEFORE I actually attempt to put it in. So this is the purpose of the thread is to find out before hand.
With the equipment you are listing, I'd say probably not needed.
Based on any car audio information I've ever ready, you normally don't need a capacitor unless you're running multiple amps, or are exceeding 1000 watts. With a 600 watt, you should be fine. I have a 400 watt amp driving
2, 12" subs, frequently at maximum output for extended periods of time and I've never had a problem.
You had that on same 05 Accord? This is the amp I have:
I've got mine in an 03 Accord but it's basically the same model. That amp support speaker level inputs so you shouldn't have any problems running it off the factory stereo, even though it doesn't have amp preouts. Just tap into the rear speaker wire. You may however, notice so some distortion from doing this since you're amplifying a signal that has already been amplified. I would install the amp using the speaker level inputs for now, and buy a new head unit only if you notice enough distortion to bother you.
If you do decide to replace the head unit, this might help you out. It's a little pricey but it'll get the job done nicely. The other cheaper adapters I've seen, take up the storage compartment in front of the gear shifter. Those suck. You not only lose your storage bin, but the stereo is in an place that's hard to reach when loading CDs.
Thanks. I knew I should have gone with another vehicle, but I was too afraid to change brands. I loved the resale value of that Civic.
alternator,
Nah, can't go wrong with the Honda. Actually, the head unit in the Accord isn't too bad. It goes well with my 2 12" subs. That's all the boom I'd want in a car. Even with the speaker level inputs there's no distortion in my bass. I hear the new Civic has a pretty bad ass stereo in it, but again, it's built into front dash. It would be even harder to upgrade than the current accord. If not impossible. At least the accord, the stereo faceplace can be changed with that thing I linked to. The civic it's actually part of the dashboard. Brutal descision on Honda's part for anyone who likes aftermarket stereos.
I have a single 12" pioneer sub with a mono amp (pushing 360 watts) into 2 ohms, and when I turn it up (around 30 out of 40) and a big bass note hits, my headlights dim... any idea why? I've heard thoughts saying a capicator will stop this, but I've also heard a lot of peopel saying a Cap is just a "band aid" and you shoudl upgrade your alt... or wires instead of a cap. the thing is I'm only pushing 360 watts.... I was pretty suprised my headlights are dimming, any idea why?
-Nick
If that is your only issue, then a cap is the answer. The purpose behind a cap is to provide the short term transient power for a surge such as you describe.
But be VERY careful when installing the cap. Only handle it while it is discharged and wear no jewelry while working around it.
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