Incredibly stupid design in '90 accord's air intake's solenoid valve

???? what a drooling idiot.

quit wasting electrons chea - the nurse will be along in a moment.

It will make a difference, but you can't measure it. bob

Yeah, that extra tenth of a milli-amp is really going to make a difference in the cranking speed.

Why don't you put a polyethylene bag between your air intake and our oxygen.

That really is insignificant. The alarm system and audio system keep-alive currents are so much greater than that (about 200 times greater) it would make no difference whatever. Same goes for cranking - half an amp less than

Mike

Where does a half amp come from? 0.143 mA is about 3000 times less than a half amp.

Assuming your engine is 100hp, a 10% increase in torque would correspond to 10 hp (at redline).

Even a 5 hp gain (at a lower rpm) equals about 3800 watts. One half amp at 13v = 6.5 watts. Even allowing for inefficiency of the alternator, you still need to account for 99% of your supposed power increase.

Conclusion #1: Energy consumption from this minor device is negligible and the "parasitic load" is not measurable except by measuring its tiny power consumption directly and calculating its minuscule, hypothetical effect on starter voltage and engine output.

Conclusion #2:You are nuts. (But we already knew that.)

BTW, you are violating a Federal law when you disable these devices. The fine could be up to $50,000. Why don't you instead go out and buy a $50,000 car which will really will be >10% faster and better in every way except fuel consumption and perhaps maneuverability. Then do not ever look under the hood and, if you do, don't tell us how defective it is.

| The alarm system and audio system keep-alive | currents are so much greater than that (about 200 times greater) it would | make no difference whatever. The bigger is parasitic*load, the more important is any reduction of *, to avoid sulfation of battery whenever battery gets no charging for many days, unless user has a functional solar battery charger connected. My clock, radio, windows motors' relay ( similarly unnecessary, wastes current & drains battery ) are all removed. My alarm is close to getting removed.

| half an amp less than 400 amps just doesn't matter. Bullshit, F20A 's starter motor is rated 1.4 kw @12v

Not with the clock again, Cheah.

You know, your car would accelerate faster if you drove naked.

Funny, my GS-R has a 1.4kW starter and a high compression engine and I live in Chicago where it can easily hit -10 F in the winter. I have an electric clock, windows and a radio and God knows what else that you would confusingly label "parasitic" and my car cranks and starts just fine every time. And that is the experience of virtually everyone here. What is your problem?

If you are really so anal about parasitic load, why don't you just install a disconnect on the battery? Here is one that I can personally attest for: