Loss of Power

Could be any number of things - can you be a little more specific with the symptoms? Does it happen all the time? Only when cold? Only when warmed up? On the flat or up hills?

Hi, Checked fuel pump ground? Make sure fuel pump works well upto spec.

Wouldn't really have the same effect on a carb'd engine - all the pump needs to do is keep the float bowl full.

Still, hard to say for sure without more details from the OP.

Had a similar problem with an 85 (carburated), Make sure the big hose from the exhost manifold to the air cleaner is in place and does not have holes or cracks, also check that the diverter valve in the air cleaner(Where that hose connects) operates properly.(on mine the link from the vaccum motor disengaged fron the valve). HTH JerryR

Another thought--I got intermittent power loss on my '86 Accord. Turned out to be an intermittent clogging of the "nut and bolt" screen at the inlet of the fuel pump. The screen and pump at that time was one assembly and required pump replacement. Power loss was sudden-----never drove in front of a big truck for fear of getting run over. MLD

That would (or should) only affect things when the engine is cold... and we still don't know exactly when this problem occurs.

Yeah, that would happen with a carb - you'd run fine until the float bowl emptied, then lose power until it (partially) filled back up again. An intermittent/weak pump or dirty filter would cause similar symptoms.

I think all 3rd-gen Accords used the same pump/pickup assembly, accessed via the trunk/hatch area.

Hi, Ever experienced intermittent fuel pump due to poor grounding?

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Air in the cooling system may do that. If there's enough coolant in the reservoir the air can sometimes be displaced. Have you been checking it or did it get too low?

'Curly'

That is not so!. My problem showed up(intermmittently) when the engine was warm(after 30 min. into an hour trip) and when the engine was colder(during the first 30 min of use) JerryR

That hose from the exhaust manifold shroud to the breather is intended to channel warm air from around the manifold into the breather *while the engine is cold*. Once it warms up, the diverter should close and allow cool air to be drawn in from behind the fender, and it should stay that way as long as the engine is warm. Piping in hot air will increase the chance of knocking and definitely NOT help your performance (REMOVING that hose would have helped, if the diverter was sticking or opening intermittantly).

Okay, so... when this happens, it just happens randomly? Does the power loss last for a while, or does it come and go? If it's intermittent, what do you do to get power back - pump the gas, turn the car off and restart it, etc.?

Full power never returned. That's why I thought maybe the engine was beyond repair.

"twb01" wrote

I had a similar problem with my 1973 Toyota Celica. Being that that car is far older than yours, the cause may be entirely different.... My problem turned out to be a bad cylinder head that apparently wasn't getting proper cooling to the cylinders, or something like that. (Turned out that Toyota had a recall on the head, but didn't let their customers know it directly. I found out about it by complaining to a dealer service manager who was willing to listen.) I recall the symptom showed up mostly when trying to climb even a moderate hill, even when getting a good running start up.

twb01 wrote in news:ff03be7e-d276-4fa5-acc5- snipped-for-privacy@e25g2000prg.googlegroups.com:

maybe the timing belt jumped a notch(or 2),or the distributor timing is off?

Does it shake, or is it smooth with its low power?

Will it even get the car up to 55?

I gather there's no smoke or smell?

No potato stuck up the tailpipe?

That sounds more like one or even two cylinders aren't working. At all. Have you checked that all cylinders are getting spark? (Sorry if you already answered that, my stupid newsserver is expiring anything older than a week...)