May this news post find you well. You seem a bit taxed, drawn or drunken. Ah
yes, there is the information i had requested in the original posting to
this news group. Castrol GTX 5w30 is the oil you wish to submit as your
champion in the lubrication of honda automobiles engines. Castrol GTX is
quite a fine choice in accordance with the many honda enthusiasts that
frequent this remarkable newsgroup.
I would like to thank you for taking the time from your exhausting day to
help an amateur car care person wrangle a few more miles out the beloved
Yeah, you're right. I had six beers and made a dumb post. Sorry about that.
I was making fun of your poor capitalization, something exhibited by many
youthful posters who think it's cool or avant garde, but which I find
The reason I originally started using Castrol GTX was because of a test of
various oils done by Consumer Reports about about fifteen years ago.
Castrol GTX was one of the top-rated oils in those tests.
Surely things have changed since then, as oil formulations now are rather
different than they were in 1991. Engine metallurgy is not greatly changed
from fifteen years ago, but engine lubricating oils are vastly improved
overall with regard to performance in engines, even with the reductions in
zinc and sulfur. However but I've found no compelling reason to switch to
another brand of oil.
My personal suspicion is that the type of oil one uses is relatively
unimportant compared to oil and filter change frequency.
well i consider myself youthful (in spirit) but that is relative and i am
certainly not cool i am just practical / lazy
i am a three finger typist, finding shift with pinky and then hunting for
the letter causes 2 problems (1) too much time or (2) hitting caps lock ,
then backspace alot and start again which violates problem 1
also an unfortunate problem derived from my early carreer, a problem not
unlike those old draftsmen engineers that write everything in CAPITAL BLOCK
i was going by some recent oil study surveys showing propeties such as
viscocity index, thermal break down (flash) and formulation additives
viscocity improvers, ( Eg Mobil 1 and Amsoil uses no viscocity improver
additives in the 5w30 and 10w30 oils)
high on list were... Amsoil, Red Line, Mobil 1, Castrol GTX
could not find Amsoil or Red Lne local but Mobil 1 can be found at wally
yes, welcome back ;)
I am thinking of kicking the synthetic habit , hope my asphalt chariot does
not get withdrawl symptoms
thanks for the info
I think that is broadly true. I changed to synthetic primarily because I
have a 1985 turbo Volvo. Those beasts from that era have an unusual pair of
characteristics. First, they don't have a PCV valve, but instead have an
oil/air separator (a plastic box with a baffle) on the top of the block. To
make that work, the second oddity comes in - the ventilation is like a
breather. The crankcase miasma, with a significant amount of oil mist
remaining, is introduced just past the AMM. The oil mist coats the inside of
the entire induction system from the turbo through the intercooler (which
must be drained periodically) and the throttle body and idle air control
valve. Dino oil gradually builds up hard deposits that resemble packed dust
that has a trace of oil in it. When the deposits block any part of the
system (and mine eventually blocked the 3/8 inch hose because I thought it
was too big to plug up and didn't clean it) the engine will evacuate its oil
rapidly. I lost 3 quarts out the dipstick tube before the next freeway exit
Anyway, the maximum guru in the alt.autos.volvo forum reported that doesn't
happen with synthetic, so I made the leap. I was so pleased with the results
I changed our other cars to synthetic. The Volvo has not needed the yearly
throttle body or idle air control valve cleanings with synthetic that it did
with dinosaur oil.
Reading all this, you are probably asking, "What does this have to do with
Hondas?" And you are right... as you say, most cars do fine with dino juice.
Maybe synthetic will improve PCV valve operation and life, but since
properly maintained Honda engines usually outlast the rest of the car I
don't see that it is crucial. "Relatively unimportant" certainly describes
It burns gas not oil, no leaks either.
I don't need to add any between 3K mi oil change intervals.
Castrol GTX 10w/40 nearly all of it's life.
If your car insists on burning oil instead of gas, then you might need to
check the PCV valve. Wait, do you have one of those high flow air filters?
As discussed previously on this newsgroup, they lead to accelerated aging of
and depletion of your wallet.
almost all the motorcycles ive had for the past 15 years have OEM foam
filters. the one on my 400cc even has 2 layers with 2 different densities.
the outer layer is 1/3rd the thickness of the filter and uses a really
porous foam, like some home air filtration systems use. the inner 2/3rds
are more dense, like eggcrate foam.
take it out, clean in hot soapy water, gently wring and squeeze dry in a
towel, then spray a light coat of foam filter oil on it.
if honda can design cars with 100k spark plugs and "lifetime" gas
filters, why not have an OEM cleanable foam filter? would it require too
big an airbox to get the proper flow rate between cleanings?
I had a 1986 Subaru hatchback. Used 10-30, changed oil alway between 5,000
and 6,000 miles. Went 305,000 miles over 11 years before I sold it with NO
engine problems. (kept it tuned up and otherwise maintained of course). I
would have kept it longer just to see how long engine would last except it
rusted out pretty bad.
This 3,000 mile oil change stuff is unecessary and wastefull and a lot of
crap just to sell oil changes IMO. As for synthentic oil, dirt still gets
in and churns around just like with ordinary oil so I believe it should be
changed just as frequently so why pay more for it?
After all's said and done, probably peace of mind. There's no doubt
that synthetics and their additives are superior to dino oil, but I
don't know anyone who's had problems due to the oil either as long as
it's changed at relatively decent intervals. I start feeling guilty
after 5k or so without a change. A few extra bucks are OK with me. Yep-
Castrol would work just fine too.
They identified a design problem with the baffles in the valve cover as
being the trigger for a more complex situation involving too much heat
difference between the lower levels of the lubrication system and the oil
under the valve cover. IIRC a redesigned valve cover was the fix. Toyota
maintained to the last that the problem was never documented in any engine
that strictly followed their oil change schedule, leading to speculation
that the margin of tolerance for oil changes was oo close for the V6.
Unfortunately, I didn't save the link on that.
oil gets hot, valve cover gets hotter. oil splashes on valve cover,
vapors attract on valve cover, both bake and get sludgy. sludge drops
down, impedes flow through pump strainer screen, etc? makes sense.
i heard some 4s were involved too. and ill bet a lot of em were just off
Motorsforum.com is a website by car enthusiasts for car enthusiasts. It is not affiliated with any of the car or spare part manufacturers or car dealers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.