Screeching windows

I've tried several different libricant sprays in the window channels (tracks) to prevent the ear-splitting screeching when they are lowered or raised by the servo, but most don't cure the problem for more than a day or two. Does anybody know something better?

Reply to
cameo
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cameo wrote in news:jos216$668$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

The ONLY lubricant you should be using is silicone spray. And you need to make sure you get the spray right down inside the run-channel inside the door, both front and rear.

If you've been using petroleum-based sprays, you've probably damamged the run-channel rubber.

Reply to
Tegger

No, no, I only used silicone based sprays, both with and without graphite in it, just as you suggest, but the effect is pretty short-lived. I was wondering if there was something new out there that's better.

Reply to
cameo

did the window ever break and was it replaced? if so, there's probably still broken glass fragments in the channel somewhere. if not, then look at the winder mechanism.

Reply to
jim beam

No, the windows were never broken. What is interesting though that the passenger side window tends to screech more than the driver side, even though that one is rolled down less often. But then, the right rear window is rolled even less, yet that is quiet. But that could also be because it cannot be rolled down as far as the front window. Maybe I'll just search for some newer silicone based sprays that work longer.

Reply to
cameo

cameo wrote in news:josp8b$pi4$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

How much are you spraying in there? I've found you really need to load it on all around, to the point where it's running out and makes a mess on the windows and you need to wipe it off. Especially you need to make sure the parts inside the door are soaking wet with the silicone.

Give it a good soaking and see if that helps.

Reply to
Tegger

Well, I'm going to give it another try though I have to be careful not to drop the thin plastic spray straw (tub) into the run channel because it cannot be inserted firmly enough into the spray head. If this will not work I would like to try to use some kind of grease. I wonder if lithium paste would be good for that.

Reply to
cameo

cameo wrote in news:jovljb$irq$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

No lithium grease! Only silicone spray. Lithium will damage the rubber the channels are made of.

What you need is a really runny, slippery liquid combined with the force of an aerosol. That's silicone spray.

If the tube won't stay put (a distressingly common problem), hold the tube with one hand while pushing the nozzle with the other.

If you're really stuck, get a garage to do it for you. It only takes a few minutes.

Reply to
Tegger

a lot of the so-called "silicone" spray lubes are just a very small percentage - the rest is ordinary petroleum distillate, and that's not good for rubber. same for greases. if you want the real deal, you've gotta pay. dow "33" is the real deal in the grease dept. and honda have a special "door rubber" grease, also very expensive.

but before you monkey about with lotions and potions, figure out where the noise is really coming from. the window level mechanism is full of levers, rollers, cables and hinges, all of which can squeak if not originally lubricated sufficiently.

Reply to
jim beam

Which is why it might make sense to pop off the door panel and inspect, clean, and lube from the bottom up instead of the top down. Access is lousy, but with flashlights, mirrors and an assortment of long handled brushes you should be able to fix it. If you are careful you will only have minor lacerations on your hands and a twisted back.

Reply to
Al

OK, no lithium then but those channels are not really from rubber but neoprene, right? At least that's how it looks to me and after so many years rubber would have dried out and became brittle in any case.

Actually that's how I was doing it but it's not very convenient.

First I want to exhaust all I could do myself. I think I also stop by the Honda dealer and ask from their Parts guy what they have for that.

Reply to
cameo

Yes, that's what I came to sense, too, though I hope I have not damaged neoprene with it.

Well, I'll find out just how expensive it is. Maybe it is because they carry it only in shop-size containers?

I think the fact that prior sprays of the run channels temporarily stopped the squeaking is a pretty strong evidence that the source is indeed the rubber or neoprene run channels.

Reply to
cameo

cameo wrote in news:jp0qjd$cue$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

^^^ That's obviously not your real email address.

Please email me. tegger (at) tegger.com

Reply to
Tegger

I just stopped by the nearby Honda dealer and the Parts guys pretty much suggested the same thing with the explanation that accummulated dirt in the tracks causes the unpleasant noise and using spray, though may help in the short run, just attracts more dirt in the long run. According to them, thorough cleaning or replacement of the rubber tracks is the only long term solution. He also suggested to try cleaning the inside of those tracks as far down as I can without removing the door panel and see if that works. If not, removing the panel and do a thorough cleaning that way, should.

Reply to
cameo

cameo wrote in news:jp1ceu$abc$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:

That's a good idea, but difficult to do. The channel goes down below the door sill about as far as it goes above it, and it's just about impossible to get anything other than silicone spray deep into the run channel unless you first remove the window glass.

And that's what Honda tells their dealers too. But again, that's a lot of work. I've found that a good soaking with silicone spray does the trick more often than not.

Reply to
Tegger

"neoprene" and "rubber" are both generics for literally hundreds of different polymers. unless one is being much more specific, you simply can't draw any such distinction.

Reply to
jim beam

depending on the age of vehicle, it's usually pretty easy to pull the rubber out with the glass in place, and slide it back also. wind the window all the way to the bottom, pull the rubber out of the channel at the top, then the sides, and then pull up so it slides in the slot. that way, it'll come all the way out. reinsertion is a reverse, sometimes with a little assistance of moving the glass up and down. i've done that to multiple civics, my accord and my toyota truck.

Reply to
jim beam

why? what do you need to say in private regarding window rubbers that wouldn't benefit the rest of the forum???

Reply to
jim beam

window rubbers have a good degree of road filth resistance, and that includes some oil, but nonetheless, excess oil will cause swelling and degradation.

mcmaster and/or mscdirect sell it in 3 or 4 oz tubes. but it's about $30. go online and check. it has a multitude of other uses, including brake rubber maintenance.

ok, clean away!

Reply to
jim beam

Whoa, that's something to see!

Reply to
cameo

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