Any ideas on why a car would loose the windows sync?
My 2006 Mustang seems to loose the sync on the windows every couple of
weeks. (Less than onces a month, usually) No big deal, just put the
window all the way down and hold the button for a couple of seconds, then
put it up the whole way and again hold the button for a couple of seconds.
Then the 'auto' up and down function work fine.
Loosing the 'auto' function until I resync isn't too bad, but it's a
convertible, and when it looses sync, it won't automatically put the window
up that last inch when I get in the car. (Convertibles lower the window
about 1" when you touch the door handle.) It's a pain in the winter (or if
it's a rainstorm) and I have to resync.
Just a comment, but i've never heard of window "Sync" on any cars. I
could be wrong. Isn't there a separate switch for each window?
Those window motors are each a separate motor, so I cant see how any of
them could be synced, other than just by coincidense. If they are all
the way UP, they should all come down at about the same pace if all
switches are held at the same time (or vice versa). Curious, do you
have a "master" switch for all the windows?
Sorry I cant be of much help, but wanted to comment on this.
The car has 'auto up' and 'auto down' for both front windows. Then the rear
windows have a single manual switch but it does do an 'auto down' whenever
you touch the convertible top.
The problem is that whenevey you touch the door to open it, the window goes
down about 1" for that door. Then goes up automatically after the door is
shut. Fine, getting in the car you can manually just hit the up. But
getting OUT of the car in the winter or bad weather, it won't go back up
that last inch automatically when the window looses sync. Not good when you
get out of the car in a storm. Or at the mall and you want to lock it up.
This sounds like a royal pain in the ass. Sometimes in winter the
windows freeze. how can the door then be opened? I'm no fan of power
windows anyhow. Give me an old fashioned hand crank. Power windows are
very costly to repair, and often lack the power to open and close when
they are frozen. Granted, sometimes the crank windows wont open in
winter, but you can apply more leverage with a hand crank.
According to what was said here, if the window motor fails, the window
is froezen. or the battery dies, you can not get in or out of the car.
To that, I can only ask what kind of morons design these vehicles, and
how they are allowed to create a safety hazzard like this?
The old Mustangs were awesome cars, but I see the new breed are (like
most cars in the last decade), full of unneeded luxury junk and are
It does not prevent you from opening and closing the door, it simply rubs on
the edge a bit. Born, raised and still living in Boston, been thru many a
winter with my 07 GT 'Vert and the windows have never once frozen shut. My
wife drives a Tahoe and that sucker gets frozen up fairly often.
To the OP. You should try to "de-initialize" the window to clear the old
memory before doing the relearning procedure. I've personally never gotten
it where the window doesn't drop down, mine occasionally (once every 6mo or
so) seem to go down with too much force which causes it to bang a bit and
that gets fixed with the relearning.
De-initialization (un-learning) of the smart window motor clears the memory
of the module and shuts off the One-Touch UP, Bounce Back and Short Drop
The smart window motors can be de-initialized in two (2) different ways:
Disconnect the battery cable from the battery WHILE THE WINDOW IS MOVING.
Remove the window motor fuse from the Power Distribution Box WHILE THE
WINDOW IS MOVING.
After performing one of the above procedures, the smart motor must be
re-initialized, see Initialization Procedure.
INITIALIZATION MUST BE PERFORMED WITH THE DOOR CLOSED! (For convertibles,
top and the quarter glass must be in the up / closed position.)
From the window switch, perform the following steps without stopping:
Operate the window UP and stall for 2 seconds. (Hold The Switch)
Operate the window DOWN and stall for 2 seconds. (Hold The Switch)
The smart window motor will be initialized and one-touch-UP and Short Drop
will be operational.
Cycle the window glass an additional five (5) times to set the window "Soft
Stop" for the down position.
TIP - VOLTAGE RANGE OF OPERATION: 9-16 VOLTS (AT THE MOTOR)
The smart motor will ONLY function in the 9-16 volt range; if the voltage at
the smart motor drops below 9 volts, the window may not function properly or
prematurely stop moving
If the voltage drops below 9 volts while the motor is moving, the motor will
become de-initialized (one-touch UP and Short Drop will be inoperable)
If the motor becomes de-initialized due to low voltage, see initialization
procedure. for instructions
Come on, are you serious? My 2006 blows away any of my 60's Mustangs. In
ALL respects. And the sytle is right on. Different, but still right on.
As to safety, it's not even close.
Sure, I'd LOVE to have my old 68 Mustang back. It was a rare one, actually
built with bench seats and 6 sets of seatbelts. But I'm under no
I wonder if maybe your battery in on the way out. My 06 Fusion started
having some wierd symptoms related to the electronics (mostly ABS light
coming on at random times). I couldn't figure out what was going on. In the
newsgroup someone said a bad battery would cause this. I thought they were
nuts becasue the car had been starting without a jump. However, I decinded
maybe the car was cranking more slowly than in the past, so I bit the bullet
and repalced the battery. The weird electronic stuff cleared right up....
My 99 Mustang GT always started on the first revolution. Then it
didn't but took several revolutions to start. Other then that
everything seemed fine. Took it to the dealer and they replaced cam
sensor. Didn't fix it. Took it back and they replaced the cam sensor
again and some other sensor. Still didn't fix it. Took it in a third
time and when I got it back they said they were sure they got it this
time - they replaced the alternator. Apparently whatever the issue
was with the alternator had cased the problem. It was still charging
the battery fine, no warning lights were on. But sure enough, it did
fix the starting problem
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