spray painting a car -- need help

Jun 02, 2007 7 Replies

I bought some paint in spray cans that match the original car color well. I also bought adhesion promoter, primer (metal and rubber-plastic) and clear coat to use too.



I'm concerned after spraying a test area (I'm an amateur) that I can't get the area I paint properly buffed / shined. I know the paint's web site gives instructions but I think my efforts won't get it right. Is there a trick to get the paint w/ clear coat I apply, buffed / shined so that it looks like the original ?



Also do I need the adhesion promoter on metal where I'll touch up or just start with the metal primer? I know it's needed on the rubber/plastic bumpers.


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I repainted the hood of my Mom's Pontiac with a roller brush. Not recommended, but it sure got interesting responses from the gas pump jockeys. It was black anyhow. Very easy to match. :-)

Somebody around here will know. . . .

'Curly'

A very fitting commemorative act regarding GM...

JT

Are you doing several coats, rubbing inbetween? I'm an amateur, but I do get a decent (not professional) result on large touch-ups that way. Never tried flexible areas yet.

Mike

I've seen a 1965 Mercury painted orange with a 2" brush when I was much younger ... who could say that it wasn't beeYOOtiful!

I painted my first car, a 1940 Chevy two door DeLuxe a two tone black 'n white with a brushed on rustoleum... I hated that car!

JT

I painted my '72 Mercedes with a brush. It looked fine from 20' away. I don't mind brush strokes, anyway.

I spray painted my 1975 Chevette using the little spray cans that I got in the Canadian tire. Here's the most important thing not to do. Don't spray the car in your back yard in the summer. For some reason the bugs love the fresh paint. Considering that the back yard was near the cattle farm, I got hundreds and hundreds of flyes, horse flyes, deerflyes stuck to the paint. It was a horrible mess, the whole town eventually was talking about it since few people saw it at a gas station.

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