Well, after losing the passenger side electric window a time ago while
still under warranty, I just now lost the driver side. I am now
beginning to see where Hyundai saved money so they could undersell Honda
and Toyota. Since I have 65,000 miles now I am pretty sure I am out of
warranty on this item.
Unlike the passenger side which got slower and slower on cranking up the
window until it just wouldn't go anymore, the driver's side just
suddenly died. I lowered the window yesterday and it went down
normally, but when I tried to raise it ... nothing at all.
Has anyone else had this problem? I am not sure if there is a fuse to
check, but I assume all windows share a fuse and the other three work
fine. I will start with fuses though this afternoon. I suspect either
the motor or the switch. Has anyone had their door panel off on a
Sonata? Is it hard to remove? Any special tools required to remove
door handles or pop body clips? If you have bought a replacement motor
or switch, did you buy online or at the dealer?
My only GM vehicle still has crank windows (1995 K1500) and they still
work just fine!
I have had two minivans and the first (1996 Grand Voyager) went 10 years
and 180,000 miles with no window failures either main doors or rear
pop-outs. My current minivan (2003 Grand Caravan) did lose the drivers
door, but that was at well over 100,000 miles.
Ok, now here is the really strange thing. After sitting in my garage
over night, I tried the window again this morning "just for grins" and
it went up like nothing had ever happened! What is what that???
Yes, I did try last night turning the car off, turning the key back on,
and starting the car again and nothing made that window budge. Then
this morning it cranks up like nothing was ever wrong. I assume these
may be computer controlled as on my Chrysler's so I am wondering if the
computer lost it mind or something. I'll have to see if this recurs.
Anyone had anything like this happen?
This would be the cheapest thing to try. I do this as a regular maintenance
item every 3 or 4 months.
Try lubricating the window tracks with Teflon or silicone spray. Run the
window up and down a few times right away. Could be there is a bind and the
motor thermals out???
Yeah, Larry may have something there if it isn't the heat itself. And
above, I meant to say it SHOULDN'T be tripping, even from the heat if it
was excessive. Come to think of it, if it reset itself it really could
only be the thermal protection on the motor (assuming it has it, and it
should). Could also be indicitive of a motor wearing out.
Several years ago, pre 2002, I had a similar problem with my Honda Accord
driver's side window. The problem turned out to be cold solder joints in
the controller box inside the door panel. After applying a bit of "brute
force and ignorance" to the door panel I was at least able to reach inside
and remove the controller box and re-solder the cold joints. That fixed the
problem and it stayed fixed until I sold the car and got my 2002 Elantra.
Knock wood, the Elantra windows are still working fine.
I have noticed though that the remote entry key fob appears to be operating
a bit slower that when it was new. I just replaced the battery in the fob
but it doesn't seem to have fixed the slowness. I'm now waiting for the the
keyless entry to become keyless non-entry. :-) At which point I may have
to go with the large brick entry method.
Sounds like a window motor to me, Matt. One of the modes of failure
is that grease gets on the contacts, preventing the motor from
working. Often, as the temperature increases (or some other external
force such as opening and shutting the door, even), the window motor
works again. When the problem is occurring, a quick and dirty
diagnostic method is to hold the window switch up or down as
appropriate to attempt to operate the window and slam the door while
holding the switch. If the window suddenly starts working, you're
near 100% it's the motor.
I haven't repeatedly replaced window motors in these cars, but it's a
rather simple repair. As I recall, you simply remove the trim panel,
unbolt and unplug the motor from the inner door panel, and remove.
Thanks. The issue has no recurred, but I suspect it will. I will
definitely try the slamming the door diagnostic.
Does the trim panel use the normal plastic push pins to hold it in
place? Any special tools required for disassembly?
Pretty much normal disassembly. There are some Phillips screws under
cover-- one at the pull grip, one at the interior handle, and 3 or 4
under small round covers. And if I remember correctly, two at the
bottom that are coverless. (Once upon a time, I could actually tell
people where all this stuff was. Now, there are so many different
models, I just look around at the common places each time I need to
remove a door panel.) Once you've got all the screws out and the
triangular mirror garnish pulled off, pull outward at the bottom of
the door panel to snap the trim panel loose and then lift off of the
sill at the top. Pretty standard stuff.
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