2004 Grand Cherokee Power Window Problem

Hi All,
I seem to have a problem with my rear passenger power window that's really puzzling. I first noticed it when it would only go down, but
not up, from the rear door switch, and wouldn't move at all from the driver's door switch. They were calling for rain, so I took apart the door to disconnect the window from the regulator, and clamped it up. So, I've been trying to figure out where the problem is, but the wiring diagram I have in my Haynes manual (1999-2004) doesn't match the actual wiring on the vehicle. For starters, there's 6 wires, and the book says there's only 5, and the colors and numbers are all different. So, figuring out what's supposed to be what is a bit of a puzzler.
There's a connector between the switch and the motor, so I took that apart, and measured the voltage there. With the switch in the down position, I get 14 volts, as expected, and 0 volts with the switch in neutral. With the switch in the up position, I also get 0 volts. So, I assumed the problem was the switch. $40 and a trip to the Jeep dealer later, I have a new switch, and the exact same problem. So, it's not the motor and it's not the rear switch. There's also no fuse that is just for this door, so it's not a fuse.
Anyway, I've taken some pictures, and have some voltage measurements. This picture shows the plug that the switch plugs into:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/b0jangles/3591083030 /
And this picture shows the connector between the switch and the motor:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/b0jangles/3590274901 /
As you can see, the Green/White and Grey/White wires go to the connector that connects to the motor. I think the solid green and solid grey wires go to the driver's door switch, and the red/black cables go direct to the battery, but I don't know that for sure. With the car on, connecting the red and black wires gives me 5V, regardless of where the driver's door switch is. Connecting the solid green and black wires gives me 14V if the driver's door switch is neutral or down, and 0V if it's up. That seems weird right off the bat. I would have expected something more like 0V in neutral, 14V up, -14 down. So, maybe that's the problem?
Anybody have any ideas or an accurate wiring diagram? What could be causing this?
Many thanks for any help!
Thanks, Tom
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aetmos wrote:

Be very careful! Starting back in 2001 they moved from using direct copper lines to a control bus. Your model uses door modules. To be specific,
BCM - Body Control Module (1) DDM - Driver Door Module (1) PDM - Passenger Door Module (3)
The most you can test is the switch and motor without a scantool.
Please keep in mind this is from a 2001.
As far as the switch goes, it pins out like this. ___ __| |_ /3 | 2 1\ |6 | 5 4| ---------- switch continuity between pins
OFF 1--2 4--5
Forward 1--6 5--6
Rearward 2--6 4--5
3 is used to power the LED, ignore it. The wire that feeds it will supply 5v.
Now if you disconnect the power lines running to the window motor, all it takes is 12V to run them up or down. They will stop when reaching the limit and watch your fingers.
The motor wires should be Yellow and Dark Green.
Google for 2001 WJ service manual There used to be a few copies floating around out there.
--
DougW



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Thank you both for your help. The description of the wiring is very helpful. I couldn't figure out what that 5V wire was for. LED makes perfect sense. I think my next step is going to be to try disconnecting the driver's door switch to see if it's causing some sort of interference, and then checking the wires in the boot. dss, do you think that could be the problem, given that the window does go down, but not up? Is that the same problem that you had? If those don't work, I guess it's time to buy a scan tool...
Thanks! Tom

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Tom,
Go to http://pdftown.com/search/node/Jeep+Grand+Cherokee+service+manual and download one of the Grand Cherokee service manuals. The latest one I found was a 2001, but that should give you a place to start. You'll know right away if things don't match with your 2004.
If memory serves me all the wires from the rear doors go back to the driver door module (DDM) and you have different wires for up and down. The manual shows you which ones to check for continuity. Before buying a scan tool or any more parts I'd check to see if the wires are good between the DDM and the passenger door module (PDM). If the wires are good then check out the DDM continuity as it could be bad.
On my repair the broken wire was right in the middle of the boot and I could see it by just slipping one side off. To repair it I had to thread all the wires through the hole in the body and it was a tight fit because there were a lot of wires. Several other wires in the boot were showing bare copper.
Good luck.
dss
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Ah! You appear to be correct. I pulled the boot back, and two of the wires were broken. I didn't get a chance to fix them last night, but hopefully that will be the culprit.
Thanks! Tom

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aetmos wrote:

Makes me wonder just how cheap they have gotten on wire.
--
DougW



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DougW wrote:

Not a new problem, Doug. I've been fixing broken wires in the door bundles for years on GM and Chrysler vehicles. Seems to be the heaviest gauge wires that go first. BTW, a fix that works for me is to cut the broken wire and slip heat shrink onto the wire before I solder it. I shrink that over the fixed area then pot the whole bundle at that point with a rubber dip that is made for coating tool handles. If you catch it as it hardens, you can taper the ends so that sharp bends get spread out - that seems to keep the problem from coming back. Anyway, it's a long-standing point of failure.
--
Will Honea


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On Friday, June 5, 2009 1:42:20 AM UTC-5, Will Honea wrote:

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Tom,
Recently fixed a similar problem with my son-in-law's 2001 Cherokee Sport. Check the wires in the boot between the body and the driver's door. His were brittle and worn after a few thousand door slams, cold winters, hot summers, etc and were showing bare copper. Plus some dealer did a real hack job on a previous electrical repair.
I found a service manual online for a 2000 Grand Cherokee and that helped a lot. I hope my hack job lasts a little longer.
dss
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Doug is on the right tract here. There is a good chance that one of the modules is bad. The scan tool to check that is about 3000 dollars (DRBIII), but with all the Chrysler dealers closing, bet you could find one cheaper. Regular Cherokees are different than Grand Cherokees in that regular Cherokees don't have all the different modules to work everything, ergo much easier to work on and understand that their bigger brothers (GCs) Good luck Glen

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Oh, yikes, a regular aftermarket scan tool won't do the trick? I'd spend $300, but $3000 is out of my range...
Where are the modules located?
Thanks, Tom

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