2007 Sonata sitting dead at dealer all week.

Bill, I feel your pain.

My 2002 Sonata died July 4th, 2003 in 125 degree weather. MAF Sensor was the culprit, 12k miles.

As for the Roadside Assistance, yup, no loaner. However, my dealership provided me one. They always do if your car is dead or needs to stay in the car hospital overnight. I would kindly ask the dealership (not sure what type of relationship you have with them or their concern of Customer Service) for a loaner while all this is going on.

Being an ex-mechanic, 60 lbs in a cylinder is not acceptable. HT might agree/disagree with me, but it sounds to me like a fuel injector would not be the cause of 60 psi or a backfire.

I'd look a little deeper, like timing chain, head gasket, etc. in addition to asking what codes it showed. I recall backfires on older vehicles where timing chain was stretched and the cam jumped a tooth. Not likely these days with chain tensioners.

As far as the new Sonatas ( I traded up to an 06 3.3) I have yet to experience anything abnormal, except for some idiot who's door got away from him on a windy day and dented my rear passenger door. Paintless dent guy did a remarkable job! I did recently rent a Sonata on a business trip with the 4 cyl and noted the ECS light coming on and off sporadically...

Steve, AZ

I do have a loaner from the dealer. I'm really just wondering if this is a one in a million problem, or if it's something that's been seen before. What about the waiting for tech support? Can't they just figure out what's wrong with it, and fix it? Or, is it such an unusual problem that it's never been seen before?

I can't vouch for much, but if they have to call in Tech Support....

HT will have the answer...

:-)

Haven't heard of this issue on this engine before (but it's a relatively new engine, so that doesn't really mean much).

Typically waiting for tech support means one of two things:

1. The technician didn't wish to hold for the next available tech support staffperson and left a message. Returning messages is very spotty. For this reason, I always hold.
2. Tech support needed to contact engineering for some reason. This is rare, and an answer is usually forthcoming within 24 hours.

ESC lamp is usually due to malfunctioning brake switch. Been a big problem on many models on 2006 and 2007. According to Hyundai, most problems can be resolved by adjusting the switch. I suppose that's why when I put my head under the dash, I can see the plunger stuck in despite nothing apparent holding it there. That's probably also why the switch has already been redesigned, right?

I would think that 60PSI wouldn't require a call to tech assistance. At that point, they should be able to inspect and figure out whether there's a leak (and where it is) or the timing is off. Maybe a broken valve spring or something. Sure seems like diagnosis should be straightforward.

Well? Did you ever get thid repaired?

Rob

Yup.... They listed three parts on the invoice:

1 21101-3CK00 ENGINE ASSY-SUB 1 ANTIF ANTIFREEZE 5 GTX1030 10W30 OIL

Apparently something went wrong in the area of the #2 cylinder exhaust valve. They said ""Checked compression and found that it had 60 PSI. Performed leak down test and found 90% leakage through exhaust. Replaced engine for code P0302. Case #xxxxxx OP codes 21101R1C 13.2 21101RA1 1.0 and

21101R40 3.0 FPN HY21101-3CK00 (N15 C06)"

I'd still like to know if this is at all common. When I picked the car up, it made it about a mile, and started running like crap, and flashing the check engine light. I drove it back, and the tech. hooked up the scanner. He removed the coil for the front left plug (facing the engine from the front) and put it back in. He said that it was because they had washed the engine. There was water all over the top, and the ribs of the transmission. It's run OK since then, but the check ensign light has come on a few times. When he was messing around with the coil, I observed that he lost the four cap nuts on the plastic cover over the engine. He said he ordered them. I've also since noticed that he left a wiring harness floating between the engine and the firewall - a couple more bolts.

It may be fixed, but they sure did a sloppy job of it. Hard to imagine they don't have a few cap nuts around as I'm sure one gets droppon on occasion doing normal service.

I have the V6...Absolutely love it. 30,000 miles with not one problem. (except washer pump) Strange they put 10w30 in it though. I thought 5w20 was the recommended oil.

With all due respect to Hyundaitech as he has helped me a number of times, some techs do a sloppy job in putting things back together. I recently took my daughter's car - not a Hyundai - in for a Power Steering pump replacement. You wouldn't have believed how it was delivered back to me. Bolts missing everywhere . . . I still do most of the work on my cars, but since this was a warranty repair, I let the dealer take care of it. It really makes me wonder sometimes. The flat rate book, and trying to squeeze in as many jobs as possible is part of this problem.

On the 10W-30 oil, I concur - they should have used 5W-20, or at least

5W-30. Frankly, I'm getting to the point where I shudder each time I think about taking my Hyundai is for preventive service. So far, each time that I have, it comes back with something that it didn't have before going in!

Not to mention the 6 cyl. takes 6 qts of oil, not 5.

The saga continues.... I live in NC. I had to take my '07 in for an inspection - I bought it in December, but it must have sat on the dealer's lot since June '06, because it had a June sticker on it. The state inspection involves hooking a machine up to the OBD II port to read the readiness indicators. It's what they call an emissions inspection. It failed! Apparently, even though the check engine light was off when I went in for the inspection, something that machine does during it's test caused the light to come back on, and it read - of all things - a P0302 - Cylinder

2 misfire. The light went back off when I left the inspection station.

This is the same code as what was in the car prior to the engine replacement. It's the same code that came up when I picked the car up, and they said it was because they washed the new engine. I am wondering if - since it has a completely new engine - the P0302 is a symptom of what killed the original engine, rather than it being the result of the valve failure. BTW, the car seems to run OK, but the gas mileage is terrible - about 18 MPG, rather than the 23 - 24 MPG around town I used to get. I figured that this was just because the new engine was "tight". Now I'm not sure. They still haven't called me to say the cap nuts have come in. BTW.... Speaking of sloppy job.... I noticed a dent / gouge on the right side shock tower where they must have had problems fitting the engine back in / out.