My 2001 Elantra still has the original battery.
I have only 40K miles on it, regular servcing
as per the manual.
The only time it failed to start was after being
in the airport parking lot for three weeks, the
battery needed a boost.
This morning the power door locks did not
operate but the car started and we drove away.
For the rest of the day the car door locks operated
normally, locking and unlocking under power.
My question is whether this is a sign the battery
is on the blink.
Ha, ha, ha... Tell that to the many OEM batteries I've had that lasted
5-9 years (yes, the OEM Delco in my 86 Jeep Comanche lasted 9 years).
Recommending that someone replace their battery because their door locks
don't work is simply stupid. Sorry, no way to sugar coat something that
With as far as you claim you went in school, they never taught you to try
and be nice once in a while? Maybe something like this:
Although 3 years is the battery manufacturers recommended replacement
interval, I've had many vehicles over the years that had OEM batteries last
much longer than that. One even last 9 years!! You may want to check the
battery in your key fob, or if you don't have one of them, possibly the
fuse for the door locks could be loose or "weak" and in need of
replacement. It is very unlikely that the car battery would be too weak to
open the door locks, but have enough juice to start the car. But if you
still suspect it, take it to a reputable shop and have it tested. Or test
it yourself if you have a meter and know what you are doing.
While Eric's correct that your issue likely has nothing to do with the
battery, it's been my experience that the Hyundai OE batteries rarely last
longer than yours has already. It wouldn't be a bad idea to keep an eye on
it, but I don't think I'd replace it in a panic, either.
I wouldn't suggest a Hyundai battery after hyundaitech's comment about
three years being a typical life. That is abysmal for a car battery.
I've had good luck with both Delco and Sears Diehards (the top-end
Diehards, not the el cheapo versions). Interstate has tested well by CR
in the past. Buy one that has at least a 60 month warranty and you are
likely getting a decent one. The warranty is prorated so you may not
get much if your battery dies early, but the warranty is some indication
of the confidence the manufacturer has in the battery.
My 2001 Accent still have the original battery and it is still
cranking strong. In the fall, a trickle charger is used to keep it
topped up. I plan to replace the battery at the slightest sign of
I use contact cleaner at the battery posts and ground. It did wonders
for the pulse generator connection.
The replacement batteries aren't the same Korean crap (my opinion)
batteries that come in the cars. Replacement batteries are made by
Interstate. That said, you can probably find just as much battery or more
for a lower price at places other than the dealer. My experience is that
it's a crapshoot, but I definitely wouldn't want one of those Korean
batteries in *my* car.
The Korean batteries are typically branded "Solite" or "Delkor."
Thanks for the info.
The power door lock is still ongoing.
Here is a summary of the events.
A) Most of the time turning the key in the
driver's door lock, all the door locks open.
B) Only the driver's door will lock from
the key position, the other doors have to
be manually locked.
C) Once in a while the doorswill operate normally,
so it is one of those annoying intermittenmt faults.
Is there a relay, or solenoid, in the driver's door lock
circuit? There seems to be a positive 'clunking' sound
as the key is turned.
This may sound dumb, but have you tried some lock lubricant in the lock
I had a problem like this on a Toyota where the driver's key would not
lock or unlock, or sometimes it would do one and not the other. The
passenger side always worked. Sometimes the trunk lock would also
refuse to turn with the key.
After spending some effort checking electrics, it was found that the
driver's door lock cylinder just needed a good dose of lubricant. That
also fixed the problem with the sticking trunk lock.
I can't speak about the Korean batteries but I have had several
conversations with US battery folks in the past that boiled down to
the technology being so mature that the average user will get a few
months more than the warranty he buys. On one hand they know why they
fail and how to avoid it. On the other the competition is tough
enough that no one is giving you much more than you pay for.
I would just charge the battery overnight with a 10 amp charger to even
it out. If you can check the SP of the acid in the battery. If you
can try getting a battery that still has the caps that allow you too.
I think Wal-Mart still sells that type.
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