p38 central locking

Don't know if you've tried disconnecting the battery for 5-mins. I've not had the problem you describe, but a quick reboot has 'fixed' a few weird problems mine's had.

Good luck

Marcus

Try checking fuses 9(20A) and 22(30A) on the fuse panel under the drivers seat. These both feed current to the front door outstations. The rear doors are fed from different fuses.

Gazza

I will wonder why the mechanical switch wont operate the lock thought ? will give it a try tomorrow ! thanks

I thought no22 was for the windows only ! well according to the handbook ! will check that in the morning aswell ! cheers

Reading your original post again, could it be that the solenoids in both the front doors have failed? Hence neither door operates from the remote, but the key opens (mechanically) the drivers door and it also operates the switch in the lock to tell the BeCM to open the rear doors?

Sorry I can't be much more help

Marcus

well its not the fuses and the sill switch wont operate the passanger door ! now how on earth am I going to get the damn thing open ?

I've had a similar prob with my P38A, was the drivers door only though, luckily, all other doors and boot operated normally. Wouldn't respond to the key fob, but manual unlocking was fine. Took the door apart and removed the lock mechanism (real headache to do) then took the lock apart. The mechanicals inside were slightly worn, so when the motor (there are actually 3 motors inside) that operated the lock mechanism moved, it didn't move the rods. Some slight 'modificatons' later and all was fine. This procedure was very delicate though, and replacing the lock back in the door was a pain!

If you can hear the motors turning in the doors that won't unlock when you operated the fob or manual key, maybe this is your problem? IIRC, I think a replacement front door lock mechanism was about =A3100.

I think there's a feature on Andy Cunningham's site about failed door locks.

Alan '98 4.6 HSE Rangie '75 SIII 109

I've had a similar prob with my P38A, was the drivers door only though, luckily, all other doors and boot operated normally. Wouldn't respond to the key fob, but manual unlocking was fine. Took the door apart and removed the lock mechanism (real headache to do) then took the lock apart. The mechanicals inside were slightly worn, so when the motor (there are actually 3 motors inside) that operated the lock mechanism moved, it didn't move the rods. Some slight 'modificatons' later and all was fine. This procedure was very delicate though, and replacing the lock back in the door was a pain!

If you can hear the motors turning in the doors that won't unlock when you operated the fob or manual key, maybe this is your problem? IIRC, I think a replacement front door lock mechanism was about £100.

I think there's a feature on Andy Cunningham's site about failed door

locks.

thanks! have you got a link to that ? got a look inside the door today and all the push rods are working and the latches so it looks like the cam that operates the lock is broken there is no resistance to the sill switch rod !and or the little motor too as that is silent !

Try here:

Alan