Gonna give it a go this weekend...Watched a Youtube video and read a few
sites that say it is pretty easy for a DIYer...Any pitfalls I should look
out for ?? Any tips or advice are welcome...Thanks..
As a side note I had them done at the shop a year or so ago (about
10,000miles) and they need it again already...Is this normal??? The wife who
is the primary driver does tend to zoom up to stop signs and pile on the
10,000 is pretty short, but it depends on three things. Quality of
the pads, condition of the rotor and caliper, driving habits.
When I lived in the city I went through brakes fast with stops signs
and traffic lights on every corner. Now, my 24 mile commute to work
can have as few as two stops.
Check to see that the calipers are releasing and not causing the pads
to drag and that the rotors are not abrasive from something.
You REALLY do not need to replace or turn the rotors and can instead get
coarse sand paper and sand out in a "spoke" pattern from the middle (or
swirls that are nearly the same) on both sides of the rotor IF:
a) They are not warped
b) They are at least minimum thickness
c) not too bad a lip on the edge
As far as 10k miles on a set of pads, either they put in very soft pads
or you have some serious dragging going on.
The "C" clamp I have is an 8" one (they measure the inside of the jaws)/
Have done brakes for years on Hondas, VW Beetles, Hyundais... never had
On 3/14/2012 11:05 PM, benick wrote:
Yea I'm thinking the shop used crap parts or didn't turn the rotors like
they said they did...Had "another" issue with them on my truck so not going
back there again....The front wheels seemed to spin freely when I put the
snow tires on last fall and never felt any dragging while taking off after
stop..The car has 80,000 miles on it and for 30 bucks a piece I think I'm
just gonna swap out the rotors...The biggest C clamp I have is 4 inch so
I'll pick up an 8 inch one...Thanks...
I recommend that you open the bleeders when pushing the piston
back into the caliper. That way the crud won't be forced back
up the brake lines. Make sure to do a fluid flush after you
have the new pads on. Its nice to have someone help on that
but you can do it by yourself. I have, lots of times.
Make sure to turn a full one quart can upside down in the
master cylinder before starting the flush.
Wheel cylinders typically have a lot of rust and crud in them.
You do NOT want that forced back up into the system and for
sure not into the ABS system.
Fluid does not go anywhere. Air pressure keeps the fluid
in the can until the fluid in the reservoir falls to the lid
area of the can. You can calculate it.
You could open the bleeder if you have a can in the reservoir
and let it drain into a pan. I often do it that way. Just make
sure the reservoir does not run dry or you will be towing the
car to a shop that has ABS energizing / cycling equipment.
Or, you can use a stick on the brake pedal.
Apply stick, open bleeder, bleed, close bleeder, remove stick,
repeat process about 4 times for each wheel.
Its a pain but does work. Can upside down in reservoir!
I was told recently by a mechanic , that there are three available pad
types for the Hyundai ; he said the most common is the 'middle
ground' brake pads but the superior kind last longer due to the
material used and are typically used on heavier cars . Im going to try
them next time.
FWIW I had 97k miles on my 2003 Elantra before it was necessary to replace
the brake pads. I had no pulsation or other issues, so I just bought pads
and had a mechanic I trust install them. That was 35k miles ago and all is
well. That brake job cost of all of $200 (including cost of pads).
"Turning" the rotors my sound like a good idea but the downside is a thinner
rotor afterward. If there are no issues, such as warping, there's no
benefit (well, no benefit to you. It benefits the $hop :-) )
Same for me in my Silverado..I bought it used and have put close to 100,000
on it and I've never changed the brakes.BUT as I said it is SWMBO we are
talking about...You would have to see her drive to know what I
mean...LOL..Thanks for all the advice and tips..Will check back in Tuesday
with the results..
Yea RIGHT , Matt...You forget who is the the boss...LOL...Got it all done
though...The only problem I ran into was getting the rotors off but once
again You Tube to the rescue..LOL..After beating on the first one for a bit
with no luck I went to You Tube and searched for "How to get a stuck front
rotor off" and got a couple of hits showing how to do it...You guys probably
already know but I'll explain it for those who might not...You need 2 , 2
1/2'' x 3/8" bolts and 4 nuts..Put the bolts thru the holes for the caliper
mounting bracket , put 2 nuts on each it leaving one flush with the end of
the bolt as the pusher so not to mangle the end of the bolt..Put a wrench on
the other and tighten with socket wrench.It will push against the
rotor..Alternate between the 2 till you here a loud POP and presto it falls
off...SLICK... Getting the 2 screws out of the rotor was a bit of a pain
too but a little WD 40 and wacking the end of the screw driver with a hammer
fixed that...Thanks for the tips...Till next time........
LOL..No it just easier if she "thinks" she is in charge...If she gets her
way , I get mine , if you know what I mean...LOL.Except for the
garage..That's mine..For 30+ years it's worked..The new brakes are
GREAT..Just like it was a new car again...Better than the shop did last
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