another subject on 86 xj6

If water has been getting into the trunk then it is possible the tank have begun to rot on their bottom sides. Remove the tanks and inspect for corrosion.

DieInterim

I have the underpanel off on one side where the leak is most noticable. Right now the right is leaking, but the left is the one I put the gas in! hmmmm

anyways, maybe the cutover switch isnt cutting all the way, sitcking part way maybe?

and on the leak, it appears to be the tank seam next to the drain and not the drain. I guess if I can drain all this fuel, I can seal the seam with fiberglass I suppose. or is the tank that easy to pull?

I would buy some tank sealant. It is used in Aviation and has moved into the automotive sector.

It is a 3 part system.

1st an acid etches the metal 2nd an acid neutralizer 3rd Is a polymer that coats the metal and fills holes. In the end you'll have a plactic tank inside of the metal one!

LINK

Good Luck! Blake

thanks.

I am battling two problems at the same time. I am about 2 bolts away I think from having the tank off. The problem is the more gas I put in the right tank , the more the left tank is getting and I have the tank switch hoses off in the trunk. I can only presume there is a notehr connection somewhere between the tanks under the trunk. I undid the fitting at the front of the left tank, and air sucked in, then even more gas came out of the back hose unhooked from the switch in the trunk.. Most confusing but I am undoing its mounts and we'll know soon enough what the deal is.

If anyone is keeping track., I found the issue with the fuel going from one tank to the other and it appears it was a leaky cutover switch which I bypassed. Now as for that tank which was no longer hooked up still blowing out fuel and leaking at the seam etc., it must be residual fuel in the tank and its being forced out when the tank presurizes while running on the good tank. I gave up for the day on pulling the bad tank just so I could run it on the good tank a while and go after this brake light issue.

Ed,

My health is poor right now or I would try to be a better help.

Take the wire off of the brake switch and jumper them together. If you still have no lights then you need to check the fuses, and although a fuse my look good, its no guarantee it is. If you take a Volt meter to the fuse and find its powered, then we are getting somewhere. Usually it is the brake switch.

Cheers, Blake

I am getting like .2 volts at the switch on one of the wires and nothing on the other. My diagrams suggest this all hooks into the "bulb alarm" device. Its a series III 1986 4.2L

I am taking a break tongiht. I was all in my trunk last night looking at lamp alarm units to no avail.'

Hi Ed

Sorry to read about your leaking fuel tank. Blake is right, if you want to be sure of doing a good job without any potential hitsches then try and find some proprietary tank sealant. Better still try and source an alternative tank from a scrapper.

Having said that :-

I have repaired two tanks with that fibreglass strand/resin mix that you can buy from any car part shop. Once was on an old Honda motorbike witha pressed steel tank that had simply rotted at the base and the other was on a top seam on a Volvo 340.

The KEY to success and this is absolutely CRUCIAL if you go the fiberglass strand/resin route is that the tank must be absolutely clean and above all there must be NO petrol (even vapour) around the effected area. The slightest hint and the resin will simply drop off. It will look ok at first but all you will need to do is flick it with your finger nail and off it comes. Make sure there is plenty of overlap past the effected area and put an extra coat on just for good measure.