I recently bought my Wagoneer. It ran great, but lately has went down hill. About a week ago my Wagoneer would not go over thirty five without cutting out. I would have to let up on the accelerator until it would quit cutting out. It was not a good feeling being in traffic when this started occuring. The problem has only gotten worse. I was driving home from work when the motor completely died. My Wagoneer would start up again but would not remain running for very long. I had a heck of a time getting it home. I could only go about five miles an hour and even then it would cut out and I would have to pull over. The next day I replaced the fuel filter, plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor and air filter. It has done little good. It will start up but will not remain running for very long. Any help and/or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!
1987 Wagoneer Limited 4x4 Fuel Injected Inline Six Cylinder
Nov 26, 2005
16 Replies
Johnny641 did pass the time by typing:
That's old enough the fuel pump may be giving out. Least wise that's how it acted when my old C-10 chevy burned out the pump lobe.
A fuel pressure gauge should be your next test. IIRC 3-5 psi was normal for a carb.
When that happened to our 88, it was a rotted ground strap from the rear of the engine to the firewall. I would start there.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail >a 4.0 engine with the Renix system huh? Maybe a CPS that is going out or a camsensor going out Or an ign coil that is weak Check the TPS Check the MAP sensor and vacuum hose going to it.
****** Probably the EGR sticking open.****** Might be a problem with the CTS or the 02 sensor Check the fuel pressure too, maybe the hose on the fuel pump is leaking inside of the tank. Check the oil level and condition to make sure it is not too full and smells like gas.And the simplest thing is BAD GAS!
good luck!
DougW did pass the time by typing:
I need to read closer before responding.
Sounds like a fuel pump going south or a plugged fuel filter. A guage on the fuel rail should show about 40 PSI with the key on and the engine not running. After startup, it should drop to 30-31 PSI and maintain that pressure as the engine speed increases. There's a procedure for doing the full checkout in the service manual, but what you describe is a classic fuel pump failure.
Fuel pump. My old '84 with a 3.4L replacement would do this went the electric pump started dying. I had three of them crap out after only a year on each. Current one's lasted 4 years. But that's probably also due to putting a much better filter ahead of it between the pump and the tank. It's entirely possible there's also a lot of crud in your tank that's clogging the filter. Unlikely, but possible. My tank actually rusted out to the point of a tiny pinhole developing. When I dropped the tank to replace it I noticed QUITE a lot of sediment and the bottom of it. Not saying you should drop the tank but if the pump is inside the tank (dunno where it is on an '87) and you're already in there it can't hurt to look.
-Bill Kearney
If it is the pump, it is easily accessed from the front of the tank on our 88 Cherokee. No need to drop the tank. When I see those die, they usually up and die. They don't give much warning from what I have seen.
Mike
86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's Canadian Off Road Trips Photos: Non members can still view! Aug./05
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(More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)
Also check the catalytic converter. We had exactly the same symptoms in an '84 Audi 5000. Had the car in the shop for over a week. Even had the factory rep out to look at it. Finally, the shop foreman removed the exhaust pipe behind the muffler, and the problem went away. Cat converter clogged.
Dick
Dick did pass the time by typing:
The way to test that is with a vac gauge.
This site has a good writeup.
DougW did pass the time by typing:
This site has a good writeup too, and it has a URL. :]
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I will go buy a pressure guage and check the fuel line pressure. I just got up from working last night or I would of replied sooner. Thank You very much for your help and suggestion.
I will start there, then check the fuel pressure. I do appreciate your help and suggestion. Thank You very much.
I got up too late to make it to the parts store, working twelve hour shifts. I went out and started my Wagoneer and after a little coaxing got it started. I checked the EGR valve and it is ok. I did notice that the second injector in is leaking. I will get a kit and fix that. When the Wagon sets and idles I can rev it and the motor reacts fine. When I tried to drive it though it lost its power and did not like the load the transmission put on it and wanted to die---no power. Also when it idles it sounds as if it is missing. What could that be telling me since I put those new parts on?
Some will use a simple tire pressure gauge to check the fuel pressure. Cheap quick trick huh?
the TPS needs to be checked, but I am not sure if that will make it that hard to start. So I suspect more than one problem Unplug the CPS harness, clean & tighten the terminals, use Di-Electric silicone grease and replug tightly
You really need to check for spark while cranking and while running! Maybe it is weak. Can you find someone with a tester that can plug into your Renix?
keep us informed as to what u find!
I will do what you suggest. I do very much THANK YOU for your help and guidance. It is a good thing when others have a problem there are people like you who will help. I do very much appreciate the input everyone has taken the time to share with me.
Thank You Very Much for helping me!
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