1994 YJ Sahara 5sp MAN MTF quantity?

Hi. I want to change the manual tranny fluid. The engine is a 4.0L and the tranny is a 5 speed manual. The owners manual gave the exact quantity for the motor, transfer case, front/rear axles but not the manual trans. It only states to use Mopar gear lub or equiv SAE 75W-90 API-GL5 grade. I will be using Mobil1 75W-90. I have Mobil1 ATF in the transfer case, Mobil1 in the f/r axles, Mobil1 in the engine and now I want to finish the job and put Mobil1 in the manual tranny. All synthetic. The owners manual appears to have numerous inaccuracies.

Reply to
Peter Parker
Loading thread data ...

There is a fill hole in the side of the trans, similar to the fill hole in the axles. The proper amount of oil is to fill until it comes out the fill hole, then stop. The axles should be filled the same way, regardless of the quantity called for. The quantity called for is not really a called for amount, it is an indicator of how big of a bottle to buy.

The engine oil is a "called for" amount because the fill hole is considerably above the full level, but the fill hole on the trans, tcase, and axles is at the max level of the fluids for each.

Reply to
J Strickland

You may want to try the Redline synthetic instead of the Mobil. I also have a 94YJ and tried them both last year - the redline definately shifted much smoother - I'd get some pretty ratty shifts if I took it up to 4k w/ the mobil or dino and the Redline really smoothed it out at higher rpm shifts. I normally shift around 2.5k-3k and it's still noticeably better even there or lower, esp. after a long, hot run on the interstate. It's refreshing to find a product that really does work noticeably better than other alternatives.

Reply to
redrubi

Are you aware that Redline is only GL4? I use Redline in my VW but I really want to go with 75W90 GL5 and that is Mobil1. GL5=Better... You might think you are shifting smoother. But...

Besides GL4 is not up to Mopar spec. I would prefer Redline if it also was GL5 spec.

On a side note, you didn't mention if you changed any of your axle or transfer case fluid. That will really make a difference in vibrations.

The answer it my query is 7 pints... Called a dealer.

It's in the service manual which I have ordered but have not yet received.

Reply to
Peter Parker

GL-5 is not necessarily better - a lot of people think that it will chemically eat away at the syncros in transmissions not specifically designed for it. Not sure if this is true or urban legend sort of stuff. If in doubt, go with the Mopar stuff.

Reply to
redrubi

I used a GL4/GL5 compatible gear oil in my T5 and it started shifting really poorly. It was crunching bad in-between gears.

My owners manual calls for GL4, so I drained out the other stuff and put GL4 in. It now shifts smooth.

Mike

86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG Muds, 'glass nose to tail in '00 88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT's

redrubi wrote:

Reply to
Mike Romain

Here is what I know and have been told. Do not use GL-5 on transmissions that use brass syncros. Older VWs use brass syncros and they specifically only called for GL4. GL-5 contains sulfur-based additives which attack yellow metals like brass. The "Mopar stuff"(sic) is 75W-90 GL-5...

Having said that and having received my "Mopar" 1994 Jeep YJ XJ (yellow book) service manual today, I can say that GL-4 is not the preferred gear oil for the AX4/5 and AX-15 (which I have).

Now-a-days GL-5 is the norm. If you have an older vehicle, I would say to double check because GL-5 was not around then and it could cease up your shifting. So I would say this is more true than urban legend.

Reply to
Peter Parker

See my previous post on Gl-4 vs GL-5. You are obviously writing about your

86 and 88 vehicles. GL-5 was not the norm back then.
Reply to
Peter Parker

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.