1996 XJ Clunk, Clunk, Clunk

I read somewhere that the driveshaft on a 4WD can cause a clunk, clunk, clunk noise if its been driven in 4WD on hard pavement . . . and when that happens, you drive it in 4WD and Reverse to fix the problem. Well, I didn't drive in 4WD on dry pavement, but my 96 XJ suddenly has a Clunk, Clunk, Clunk noise, and I'm wondering what it might be. Also, I can't work on it myself, so I'll have to take it to a Mechanic if it's something serious. Any suggestions?

Reply to
bw-fl
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Muffler or tailpipe hitting? That is common.

The rear driveshaft has a slip joint on some that needs greasing regularly or it can clunk.

A blown shock bushing or shock can also clunk.

A blown U-joint can also clunk just before it drops the driveshaft on the ground... Watched a friend's truck pole vault the driveshaft and almost flip when his hit the ground and caught. To check that, block the wheels and put it in neutral, then reach under and see if the ends of the driveshaft are loose.

Mike

2000 Cherokee Sport 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail > I read somewhere that the driveshaft on a 4WD can cause a clunk,
Reply to
Mike Romain

What Mike said and at the very least have all U-Joints, including that slip joint, greased by an intelligent/thorough "grease monkey" NOW to see if it changes anything. Watch if you can there, should be many (possibly over 8) grease fittings to do. ;-) Bad/rusty joints will have brown grease coming through and maybe water too.

Not too sure if those quick oil change places actually do this although they claim to.

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Thanks Mike and Dave for the suggestions. Here's what I found out yesterday. A Mechanic told me that the seal where the driveshaft enters the front axle is "blown out" and that grease is being thrown around. He also said that he found metal shavings in there. The estimate is at least $300 just to open it up, plus the cost for any dmaged bearings, gears, etc. that might need to be rerplaced. Does that sound right, and should I get a second opinion?

Reply to
bw-fl

Well my front axle slip joint throws grease around.

The front diff doesn't have grease, it has gear oil....

The front driveshaft shouldn't be moving at all when you are driving on the street, but I could see the slip joint still moving in and out over bumps.

Sounds wrong somehow.

Mike

2000 Cherokee Sport 86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33x9.5 BFG AT's, 'glass nose to tail > Thanks Mike and Dave for the suggestions. Here's what I found out
Reply to
Mike Romain

Well, $300 just to "open it up" screams RUN AWAY.

Actually it screams "dealer pricing" as that's roughly what they wanted to change the oil in my diffs. Bugger that!

Now if that's the total labor cost, no matter what they find, then possibly, but still it seems too high. A rebuid kit runs about $100 but that does not contain the ring or pinion gears. If those are damaged then the cost goes up another $350 or so.

A junker front axle can often be cheaper than a rebuild.

Reply to
DougW

$300 sounds like the labor charge and then add the cost of parts. Is that right? If so I don't think that is bad if you get a good long warranty! Check out parts prices to make sure that they aren't going to be exorbitant!

AND I agree that you should be able to compare the rebuild to the price of installing a used one in there. Of course if YOU do the work, labor shouldn't kill you! :-)

I like to shop around so you don't pay too much but ALWAYS use a recommended shop!!!!

JMHO

Reply to
dave AKA vwdoc1

Did the new control arms include new ball joints?

Have you made sure the bolts that hold the spindle on the ball joint/control arm are tight? If these are not torqued really well they will make a clunk noise.

What about the axles?

Reply to
keypogue73

On Friday, I took it to another place for a 2nd opinion. They drove it, but couldn't duplicate the intermittent clunk. They put it on the lift and examined the axle, wheels, U-joints, etc., and said everything looked OK. The seal on the front driveshaft was bad so they replaced it. They also fixed my rattling cat converter by driving a screw up into it. The total charge was $50, which I thought was OK. If it clunks again, I'll take it back to those guys along with the email suggestions you all have given me. Thanks!!!

Reply to
bw-fl

Sometimes clunks come from strange and distant locations. Take a close look at your motor mounts. If they have sunk with age (and they do) then the engine or transmission might be bumping up against something.

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I would stick with OEM. The aftermarket ones from NAPA just don't seem to be built with the same amount of rubber. (Might be wrong, but the last set I got was from NAPA, in a few years time will tell)

I get my parts from CPD

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Reply to
DougW

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